Thank you everyone.
MASantos,
The Chassis is a Hi-Fi 2000 from the diyAudio store but heavily modified, literally. I added so much aluminum and some copper heat spreaders that I can hardly lift the thing.
Eric,
thank you,
I worked real hard on minimizing the number of wires and hid all that I could. Most of the wires are exiting the back side of the boards.
Nelson Pass,
I have been listening to your design all afternoon and I am amazed. How can a simple 2 gain stage amp with so few parts sound so wonderful?
MASantos,
The Chassis is a Hi-Fi 2000 from the diyAudio store but heavily modified, literally. I added so much aluminum and some copper heat spreaders that I can hardly lift the thing.
Eric,
thank you,
I worked real hard on minimizing the number of wires and hid all that I could. Most of the wires are exiting the back side of the boards.
Nelson Pass,
I have been listening to your design all afternoon and I am amazed. How can a simple 2 gain stage amp with so few parts sound so wonderful?
The F5 audio output is connected to the drain of the mosfets so I mounted them directly to the copper heat spreader, no electrical isolation between transistors and copper. I added a thermal interface product between the copper bar and the grounded aluminum bar to electrically isolate them. There are also nylon bushings in the screw hole to isolate the mounting screws. I figured this would be a good way of transferring heat away from the output devices. Works very well and does not add any significant capacitance between output and ground.
Thanks JSA1971.
Ok, the power button has a blue backlit ring light. Mouser part ULV7F2G11341 E-Switch | Mouser
It is a double pole 3 amp switch wired in parallel for 6 amps that may or may not be big enough, still testing.
Presently using NTC inrush current limiters but may have to go with a relay or a soft start circuit if the switch welds itself closed. I have had that happen in other projects.
Ok, the power button has a blue backlit ring light. Mouser part ULV7F2G11341 E-Switch | Mouser
It is a double pole 3 amp switch wired in parallel for 6 amps that may or may not be big enough, still testing.
Presently using NTC inrush current limiters but may have to go with a relay or a soft start circuit if the switch welds itself closed. I have had that happen in other projects.
Case stack for some upcoming builds
Can you name the cases. Are these or some of these chinese ebay enclosures? I'm lookibg for some. Nice bikes too, though I run the bicycle store I can't guess what the brand it is. All the brands look the same these days anyway. In the vintage 90-ties times pretty much only Yeti used this colour finish.
Kind Regards
Nice - truly art pieces category!!
Two F5 mono blocks. The fiancee decided to call them choo-choo amps. I don't see any resemblance.
F6 in new chassis...
The chassis in the first picture ( the dual mono) has had many amps in it, but now I'm giving each type of First Watt amplifier it's own chassis.
I bought a nice chassis on Ebay from Chinese seller, not cheap, but quality is very good.
Also no more dual mono, and this is what my 'standard' F6 looks alike.
I only replaced the 230V switch which I didn't trust, for a small push button pulse switch and a soft start board with temperature control.
As always a big rocker switch on the back in case things go really wrong
Next, is to give my old standard F5 a new chassis.
The chassis in the first picture ( the dual mono) has had many amps in it, but now I'm giving each type of First Watt amplifier it's own chassis.
I bought a nice chassis on Ebay from Chinese seller, not cheap, but quality is very good.
Also no more dual mono, and this is what my 'standard' F6 looks alike.
I only replaced the 230V switch which I didn't trust, for a small push button pulse switch and a soft start board with temperature control.
As always a big rocker switch on the back in case things go really wrong
Next, is to give my old standard F5 a new chassis.
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