It has been a while but at last it is finished!
4 channels was once F2Js but now have become something else, I jokingly call them F2I =). So single ended inductor loaded R125s. 2 bigger amps with Hammond 193Vs and 2 smaller tweeter amps with 193Ts.
Below the metal platform there are 2x 150W SMPSes which output ~ 26.5V. There is also a Hypex DLCP SMPS hiding there too =)
The reason for such a high voltage is that my speakers (which are not yet finished
) are 16 ohm. The bigger amps run at 1.8A and the smaller ones at 1.4A. There are no parallel resistors either as I love current sources! The drivers the amps are meant to driver are my mids and my tweeters.
The input is AES/EBU and the source is a 6 channel Hypex DLCP DSP board.
And a word of advice, if anyone wants to try to cram this much stuff into such a small box... don't
I hope I never have to service it, if I have to I might just buy a new bigger box instead because I can't really access the the SMPSes without taking everything apart.
4 channels was once F2Js but now have become something else, I jokingly call them F2I =). So single ended inductor loaded R125s. 2 bigger amps with Hammond 193Vs and 2 smaller tweeter amps with 193Ts.
Below the metal platform there are 2x 150W SMPSes which output ~ 26.5V. There is also a Hypex DLCP SMPS hiding there too =)
The reason for such a high voltage is that my speakers (which are not yet finished
) are 16 ohm. The bigger amps run at 1.8A and the smaller ones at 1.4A. There are no parallel resistors either as I love current sources! The drivers the amps are meant to driver are my mids and my tweeters.The input is AES/EBU and the source is a 6 channel Hypex DLCP DSP board.
And a word of advice, if anyone wants to try to cram this much stuff into such a small box... don't
I hope I never have to service it, if I have to I might just buy a new bigger box instead because I can't really access the the SMPSes without taking everything apart.
Attachments
I thought about doing buffers, but as the output impedance on the DLCP is 100 ohm it should be OK without considering I don't have any passive volume management in between. I have some PCBs lying around for a BF862 powered B1-esque amp but never got around to assemble them as it should be overkill =)
Pass ACA a 6W pair of single ended class A mono block power amps Pass designed to be simple and inexpensive to build. I wanted to try it with my Fostex FX120 speakers (in Fonken enclosures) and was also curious how it would work with the my HiFiman HE-6 headphones which are notoriously hard to drive.
I Purchased the pcb boards from diyaudio, won a large used heatsink on ebay which I cut down to make the two sides and used some offcuts of Zebrano wood for the enclosure.
Its up and running for a couple of days and is driving the Fostex FX120's really quiet nicely (2W tricked out SETs tube amp prior).
The HE6 headphones have been running off of the speaker taps also with excellent results. Next I'm going to try some tweaking and swapping out the electrolytic signal capacitors for some film ones and look at installing a passive attenuator.
The two mono block amp sections are in a single diy enclosure.
I Purchased the pcb boards from diyaudio, won a large used heatsink on ebay which I cut down to make the two sides and used some offcuts of Zebrano wood for the enclosure.
Its up and running for a couple of days and is driving the Fostex FX120's really quiet nicely (2W tricked out SETs tube amp prior).
The HE6 headphones have been running off of the speaker taps also with excellent results. Next I'm going to try some tweaking and swapping out the electrolytic signal capacitors for some film ones and look at installing a passive attenuator.
The two mono block amp sections are in a single diy enclosure.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Balanced Ironamp
My sincere thanks to Michael Rothacher for his Ironamp design posted here.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/244926-ironamp-video-posted.html
I just completed the balanced version and the sound is absolutely stunning. It is the VFET triode sound but significantly raises the bar over my L'Amp light bulb heater. Although I could use a better camera here are a few pics.
Regards,
Dan
My sincere thanks to Michael Rothacher for his Ironamp design posted here.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/244926-ironamp-video-posted.html
I just completed the balanced version and the sound is absolutely stunning. It is the VFET triode sound but significantly raises the bar over my L'Amp light bulb heater. Although I could use a better camera here are a few pics.
Regards,
Dan
One thing to check is the temperature of your devices to make sure the heat is adequately being communicated from those plates to the heat sinks. If you just measure the heat sink temperature it can give the comforting illusion that all is okay.
Love the meters. Tell us how it sounds once you've had a little time to listen
Love the meters. Tell us how it sounds once you've had a little time to listen
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
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Jamie: i just love that wooden chassis! I've been starting to focus on exotic woods to dress up the standard metal boxes.
Dan: cool tube- inspired design for a solid state amp! Reminds me of Mark Finnis' DIY A40 from 12 years or so ago that I found on the Pass website as I was building my A40 amp.
Dan: cool tube- inspired design for a solid state amp! Reminds me of Mark Finnis' DIY A40 from 12 years or so ago that I found on the Pass website as I was building my A40 amp.
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Hello dantwomey,My sincere thanks to Michael Rothacher for his Ironamp design posted here.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/244926-ironamp-video-posted.html
I just completed the balanced version and the sound is absolutely stunning. It is the VFET triode sound but significantly raises the bar over my L'Amp light bulb heater. Although I could use a better camera here are a few pics.
Regards,
Dan
Where did you get the current meter from? It's so nice!
I purchased some 500ma DC ammeters from fleabay. They aren't extremely accurate but will do as a guideline. I found mine were within about +/- 20ma or so. I used a very accurate Fluke meter to set the bias so now the meters are mostly cosmetic. The Bulgin illuminated switch, the meters, and solid Mahogany side panels all combine to really impress the average person that sees my creation. Then they sit down to listen to it and they are in awe! They think I'm some sort of mad scientist without the handle bar mustache.
Regards,
Dan
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I purchased some 500ma DC ammeters from fleabay. They aren't extremely accurate but will do as a guideline. I found mine were within about +/- 20ma or so. I used a very accurate Fluke meter to set the bias so now the meters are mostly cosmetic. The Bulgin illuminated switch, the meters, and solid Mahogany side panels all combine to really impress the average person that sees my creation. Then they sit down to listen to it and they are in awe! They think I'm some sort of mad scientist without the handle bar mustache.
Regards,
Dan
Here's a link to the one's I used.
DC 0 500mA Round Analog Ammeter Panel AMP 500mA Meter DH62 Directly Connected | eBay
Regards,
Dan
My first DIY project: an Aleph J-i (I added the "i" 'cause there's a source selector and a volume potentiometer, making it a kind of integrated amplifier):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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