Pictures of your diy Pass amplifier

This is my Aleph 3. Modushop, 600VA 1,1F CLC PS. 21kg total ;)
After 4th remake attempt it got a little bit messy so I hope this is final structure :]
 

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Hello together,

Please, see next answer (last sentence).


I don't know how much it is, Alex said it to me but i don't remember.

So, i asked Alex via mail and wait for a respond. Some other pics from Alex.

Wow that is HUGE!!! too bad the blades of the heat sink are horizontally, I think it will dissipate heat faster and easier if the blades are vertically.
 
My F4.....it's been done awhile, just got around to snapping a few pics.

Very nice job! I think AndrewT is saying the RCA terminal are a little wider open than it should be. I do not think that is too much to worry about, as long as amp does not have any "back noise" all should be fine! I always use triple shielded microphone wire to connect the inputs and I have not encounter any problems with any back noise. so far..so good!
 
Andrew, Is this what you are calling a loop? Through the negative/ground?
not that.
Look at the back of the RCA socket.
The shield is connected via a wire that is then soldered to the solder tag.
Look at the gap between the Signal wire and the grounding wire.
That gap is a loop. It picks up interference.

The loop can be made at least ten times smaller in area and with care maybe even reduced to 1% of the existing area.

Bare a tiny bit of signal and insert such that the screen nearly touches the free end of the RCA. Solder the signal to it's receptacle. Solder the screen to the end of the RCA using a tiny length of strand from a multi-strand core. If you are really careful you could try to solder 4 strands around the end of the RCA stub arranged at 90°. These extra strands contact the screen around the periphery of the screen.
Until I read Ott, I had not realised how important the complete circumference of the screen is to making the screening effective.
Ott repeatedly tells us to NOT use a screen pigtail.
 
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Nice and clean boy, where did you get that chassis.

Duder: I built it using HeatsinkUSA 10.80" heat sinks, and aluminum angle and plate from a local metal supply house.


I should have added that the screen should extend all the way to the connector.

Hi Andrew: The screen/braid is tinned and soldered to the ground tab (no lead wire), but I suppose that I can make that entire joint a smaller "loop".