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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
At least it worked for me.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
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100ohms to ground at the output doesn't influence the obolute DC offste in any way.
Your chassiss will be pretty deep
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: -
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Edwin,
that's fine no problem. What you are describing is caused by output mosfets that have different transconductance. Nelson has suggested to match the semis at two different current levels to ascertain that the transconductance is similar between mosfets. |
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Quote:
Do you mean to change R17 to a trimpot? Edwin |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: -
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Quote:
It doesn't at 15 V rail, at 25 I am not so sure. There are different things that happen at higher voltage as I found out. Nelson uses them. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: -
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R17 doesn't do anything to the DC, it just control how much current flows through the voltage reference.
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#17 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Hi, Edwin,
Very nice amp!!! The nicest way to reduce offset is what Peter says in post #11. Second, I used the resistors from common input sources to outputs and I set the value at 4.7k. Bringing it further down to 2.2k increased stability of the offset. Coupling caps at the input also helps a lot, not only for the zero offset, but also for offset drift. I never used 100ohm resistors at the output and it works great: 1 to 2mV after 10 to 15 minutes, and very stable. Look at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...696#post173696 and you will see how I mounted the input fets; very handy to change them till they match perfectly. There's also a post somewhere that says to first adjust V1/V3, then V2. V2 has a great infuence on offset. These are my findings when building the amp. What value did you use for R19/29 and for feedback and input R's? Did you use C2/4? /Hugo - can't wait to see pics of the finished amps.
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: -
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Netlist,
yes, post 11 is all fine and dandy and that is what edwin is doing. The problem he is having is that he can 0 the dc offset (practically speaking) but that brings produces a somewhat different current flow between the two sides as measured by the voltage drops on the source resistor, that is assuming that all the resistor are exactly equal of course. |
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#19 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#20 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: -
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Quote:
The guy's got 5 trimpots, as I can see from the pic. 1 appears to be for the ccs adjustment and an extra pair for r12 and 34 for the AC current gain adjustment. |
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