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Old 15th September 2010, 06:32 PM   #511
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I think I am going to sell my boards, I may be over my head on this one. Had no problem building the B1 buffer but there seems to be more involved here. I may just look at someting already built.
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Old 16th September 2010, 07:37 AM   #512
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Oh ! Too sad to hear this I'm sticking with the project however . I now have to match the 2SK170s, received the batch yesterday. I'm going to make the .pdf transparent prints tomorrow. Later on I will order the 1% RIAA polypropylene caps. I will finally need the M-Lytics 10.000uF and a temporary PSU setup to test all this.

Last step will be the enclosure, with the I/O jacks. As I said I will use the Silver Bullet chassis RCAs, but I also need some "power" connectors as my PSU box will be a couple of feet away. Anyone has a good recommendation for this ? I only see the need for 4 wires, the symmetric +/-30V and an optional earth distinct connection from PSU box to main audio one ( as audio ground will be isolated from chassis ) ??? Input appreciated

Best,


nAr
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Old 16th September 2010, 09:26 PM   #513
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Hmmmm, so I did more reading and started sourcing the parts to try and convince myself to move forward. The only place that I am stuck right now is what to order for P1 and the red led and C7 and C9. I am looking at digikey for P1 and saw this part number. SP064W-5.0K-ND Any help on the other parts would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 17th September 2010, 07:13 AM   #514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budwiser View Post
Hmmmm, so I did more reading and started sourcing the parts to try and convince myself to move forward. The only place that I am stuck right now is what to order for P1 and the red led and C7 and C9. I am looking at digikey for P1 and saw this part number. SP064W-5.0K-ND Any help on the other parts would be greatly appreciated.
SP064W-5.0K-ND for P1 is perfect to my eye, multi-turn Cermet Vishay, will be reliable and precise
red led is part 160-1708-ND or all equivalent 1,8V direct tension red led
for C7 and C9:
C7 is "a good 10 pF" but Wayne stated it could be removed; I chose part 338-1068-ND for this, just in case I would need it;
for C9, use some PTFE insulated wire and twist some length then heat shrink and use a capacitance meter to trim it down with scissors to exactly 5pF and voilą
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Last edited by nar; 17th September 2010 at 07:35 AM.
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Old 30th September 2010, 08:25 PM   #515
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Appears this isnt going to be the most popular build around here.
I was going to wait and see others projects come to fruition to learn from, but they arent yet coming to the fore.

Looking at other's DIY Pass ONO and similar phono pre builds, I think I see the way I will lay things out. Similar box to my B-1, assuming its wide enough to accomodate the two boards side by side. If not, it will either be made either wider or deeper, so as to hold both boards. Power supply in a seperate case and located underneath the Pearl 2 main box.

How's everyone else planning to lay things out?

Russellc
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Old 1st October 2010, 08:49 PM   #516
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I plan on sourcing all my parts, get my cabinets, one for the phono boards and one for power supply. Populate the boards and mount everything in the cabinets except the power supply which I will wait to hear what others are doing there. I would expect some activity on builds fairly soon.
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Old 1st October 2010, 09:12 PM   #517
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I just don't want to clutter the thread too much, but I'm currently matching the jfets from my batch

I hope I can get 2 quads out of here, for now 3 parts at 6,19 / 6,19 / 6.13 mA IDSS

nAr
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Old 2nd October 2010, 11:21 AM   #518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nar View Post
t I'm currently matching the jfets from my batch
So, first batch is matched, out of 60 bought jfets from same wafer, 2SK170 from Toshiba, I got:

- 2 quads >5mA:

@ 6,30-6,29-6,27-6,30 mA
@ 6,16-6,19-6,19-6,13 mA

- 8 pairs also >5mA:

@ 6,01-5,99 mA
@ 5,89-5,88 mA
@ 5,81-5,80 mA
@ 5,78-5,77 mA
@ 5,65-5,66 mA
@ 5,32-5,32 mA
@ 5,15-5,12 mA
@ 5,01-5,00 mA

Is that precision sufficient ? I used a 9V battery with GS tied together and measured the IDSS that way in the 20 mA meter range.
9V battery voltage was the same before and after the matching process, so I guess no fault here.
From the rest I can do some more matched pairs, but they will be below 5 mA IDSS.

May I ask a question ? Do the second stage diff. pair Jfets need to be matched with as high IDSS ? Or is the range from 4 mA to 5 mA still interesting ? I thought the 5 to 6 mA IDSS range was good especially for the input quads ...

Thanks for your input !!!

Regards,

nAr
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Old 2nd October 2010, 12:31 PM   #519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budwiser View Post
I plan on sourcing all my parts, get my cabinets, one for the phono boards and one for power supply. Populate the boards and mount everything in the cabinets except the power supply which I will wait to hear what others are doing there. I would expect some activity on builds fairly soon.
Sounds like a good way to proceed, to Mouser and digikey!

Russellc
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Old 2nd October 2010, 03:59 PM   #520
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Default My boards

Small update: the boards are now done.

As you can see, this is my attempt to make some real PassDiy Pearl II clone boards

Once again, many thanks to eclectic2k for the big help ! greatly appreciated

Except for the I/O pads, where I added some square areas in order to solder the silver ribbons (remember my version will use no wire to carry audio signals).

I happily used PS for this, though it was a hard time especially for tracks width and ground planes. I then printed my .pdfs to inkjet transparent on my Canon IP3000, and that two times for a good "black" at UVs.
Once varnish is perfectly dry, the drill process will begin. There are about 179 holes x 2 (stereo) to drill. The varnish used was sprayed in very small quantity, so soldering will be easy whilst keeping the tracks away from copper oxidation

Sorry for the blurry & shady pictures. My phone has no flash, but it's a good phone !

Regards,

nAr
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File Type: jpg components.jpg (152.3 KB, 764 views)
File Type: jpg solder.jpg (147.9 KB, 735 views)
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