Pearl Two - Page 129 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Pass Labs

Pass Labs This forum is dedicated to Pass Labs discussion.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 20th December 2011, 01:55 AM   #1281
diyAudio Member
 
PierreQuiRoule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ottawa
Rich - The circuit behaves like the potentiometer is the wrong value. Please would you verify that it is a 5 kohm potentiometer you put in. It might be worthwhile removing and testing it. Do you have a spare one ?

We want 0 v at the P1 test point...

Pierre
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2011, 02:24 AM   #1282
diyAudio Member
 
richluvsound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: LONDON
Thanks Pierre ,

will do . I did and it checks out perfect ...Clicks at 5.18K

Rich

Last edited by richluvsound; 20th December 2011 at 02:51 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2011, 03:47 AM   #1283
diyAudio Member
 
PierreQuiRoule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ottawa
Quote:
Originally Posted by exojam View Post
found the answer in post 555. Sorry.

James
James - Yes, these NJR parts are the ones that Wayne listed in the article. I remember them having a lower noise specification than those made by other manufacturers. My Pearl 2 is very quiet with them.

Pierre

Last edited by PierreQuiRoule; 20th December 2011 at 03:57 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2011, 03:56 AM   #1284
diyAudio Member
 
PierreQuiRoule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ottawa
Quote:
Originally Posted by richluvsound View Post
Thanks Pierre ,

will do . I did and it checks out perfect ...Clicks at 5.18K
Rich
Oh well... sorry about the trouble. Perhaps some pictures might give us a clue?

You are sure you cannot adjust the P1 test point to zero with the potentiometer?
The lowest that pad will go is 10 volts? Are you sure it is not -10 volts? It is a very sensitive adjustment. Quite easy to miss the 0 volt and overshoot into the negatives... Note that +/- 0.1 V would be close enough.

Pierre
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2011, 05:34 PM   #1285
diyAudio Member
 
richluvsound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: LONDON
Trying to get the V to stay in the mV ....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN0246.JPG (942.6 KB, 218 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2011, 07:58 PM   #1286
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
diyAudio Member
 
Zen Mod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
good picture ..... but problem is that all solder joints looks older than I saw on some tube amps from yore time
in this moment I'm doubting that you didn't scorched even some passive part , besides active ones ........
__________________
my Papa is smarter than your Nelson !
clean thread; Cook Book;PSM LS Cook Book;Baby DiyA ;Mighty ZM's Bloggg;Papatreasure;Papa... by Mighty ZM
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2011, 08:44 PM   #1287
nar is offline nar
diyAudio Member
 
nar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: near the sea
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
good picture ..... but problem is that all solder joints looks older than I saw on some tube amps from yore time
in this moment I'm doubting that you didn't scorched even some passive part , besides active ones ........
I hate to say it, but it is also the way the pic looks unfortunately.
There's either a problem with soldering technique, flux and/or soldering station usage. Sometimes older stations iron endpoints do not work well with unleaded. Sometimes temp is set too high, unadequate to the flux used and it can nick some active and even passive parts. Are you sure you do clean the iron end with a wet sponge or metallic equivalent between each solder point ? The endpoint should be perfectly clean and shiny between each solder point with no residue, black or even gold one. When I power up station, once temp is reached I always "clean" the endpoint by adding some fresh flux, and letting it burn for seconds before cleaning the endpoint perfectly with the wet sponge. Then my solder session can begin.

Could you post us pics of an other amp you made ? Do the joints also look like in the pic you just sent ?

Again, I hate to say. But some errors couldn't be corrected if the work is faulty.

Best regards,

nAr
__________________
"... Audio needs the thinnest wire ..." Rowan McCombe ... I hear it !!!
"Just 'cause they can't hear or sense it themselves doesn't mean you can't !" Allen Wright Allen was right ...

Last edited by nar; 20th December 2011 at 09:12 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2011, 09:17 PM   #1288
diyAudio Member
 
richluvsound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: LONDON
The amp I made is on loan at the moment .... I use a wetting compound and clean the tip often . I use 380 C for most parts and 450 C for the ground plane parts .

I think I should strip the output stage and check all parts for failure . Use new parts where needed ....

I was told that I wasn't using enough heat , now I'm using too much LOL
I guess it must be rocket science after all .

Perhaps someone could recommend some products ... I have mentioned the products I use for your opinions in this thread.

Merry Christmas all

Rich
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2011, 09:26 PM   #1289
nar is offline nar
diyAudio Member
 
nar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: near the sea
Quote:
Originally Posted by richluvsound View Post
The amp I made is on loan at the moment .... I use a wetting compound and clean the tip often . I use 380 C for most parts and 450 C for the ground plane parts .

I think I should strip the output stage and check all parts for failure . Use new parts where needed ....

I was told that I wasn't using enough heat , now I'm using too much LOL
I guess it must be rocket science after all .

Perhaps someone could recommend some products ... I have mentioned the products I use for your opinions in this thread.

Merry Christmas all

Rich
Rich

Please try accordingly to your flux. For using my Cardas tri eutectic for 1st time I tested from 150C by increments. I then settled on 330C which is plain high. Instead of pushing the temp for ground planes connections, you'd better stay on the same temp & change the endpoint to take a bigger one, flat screwdriver model instead of ballpoint small, that fits small dense areas and tiny resistors.

I'm only willing to help.

Happy Christmas to everyone here, peace and joy in the world

Warm regards.

nAr
__________________
"... Audio needs the thinnest wire ..." Rowan McCombe ... I hear it !!!
"Just 'cause they can't hear or sense it themselves doesn't mean you can't !" Allen Wright Allen was right ...
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2011, 09:54 PM   #1290
diyAudio Member
 
richluvsound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: LONDON
Cheers nAr,

I bought my soldering station second hand ... Its been serviced ,but the points are not brand new .... perhaps Santa will be kind I use 1.5mm chisel
point that has seen better days ...

Rich
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Another diy-pearl... lykkedk Pass Labs 18 15th June 2007 05:44 PM
ono or pearl PCB's mantisory Pass Labs 1 29th September 2006 12:12 AM
Pearl need help dzkh63 Pass Labs 1 26th September 2006 04:16 PM
WTB: Pearl PCB aire Pass Labs 1 26th February 2006 11:51 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:19 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2