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Old 10th November 2011, 02:04 PM   #1011
6L6 is online now 6L6  United States
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Rich - just to confirm, you do have one operative board, correct?
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Old 10th November 2011, 02:18 PM   #1012
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I had it working last week ,but not with proper PSU . I turned it off and got some pretty frightening cracks through the speakers ....

I have not used it since .... When I say working board .. I mean it doesn't blow a fuse ...

I got the .0033 uF suggested ,put it in and lost another fuse . Now back to the 4x 1000pf I made up and fuse is ok .

Just changed cables ... thats not it . The distortion is consistent through L&R

I get sound ,but nothing I'd want to listen to, except maybe as an alternative to water-boarding .

Trying to laugh about it ,but it aint easy as the cost starts to eat into other things ! B1 is a thing of fantasy for the foreseeable future !

Wounded , but not dead yet , Rich
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Old 10th November 2011, 02:24 PM   #1013
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Would it be worth the dime calling Wayne ?
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Old 10th November 2011, 07:17 PM   #1014
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Ok ..... I just spoke to Wayne ... I need 24 VDC + and - after the onboard Reg .... Where do I measure from please ?

Jfets are not a problem to replace , but he doubts "Death by Richard " was successful !

Which is the 0 v leg and which is the 24 V leg ?


Rich
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Old 10th November 2011, 07:25 PM   #1015
6L6 is online now 6L6  United States
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Use the "Ground" pad for the common (black) lead on your multimeter.

Measure (+) volts on the bottom leg (further away from the heatsink) of R3 or R4

Measure (-) volts on the bottom leg (Again, further away from the heatsink) of R31 or R33


I will take a photo and make some notes on it.
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Old 10th November 2011, 07:43 PM   #1016
6L6 is online now 6L6  United States
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Here is the annotated photo -

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by 6L6; 10th November 2011 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 10th November 2011, 07:50 PM   #1017
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thanks 6 ,


that checks out OK , within 1/2 a vdc . I have the correct polarity too !

next ? any ideas ? BTW , Wayne said just to email him if needed .

Nice man , didn't make me feel like joker for a mili - second

Rich
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Old 10th November 2011, 08:00 PM   #1018
6L6 is online now 6L6  United States
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That's wonderful news!

Start looking for backwards components. Then start measuring resistors one at a time.

Also, somewhere on this thread there is a schematic with the proper voltages drawn in. Check those.

Yes, Wayne is a wonderfully nice guy. I had a chance to sit down with him a pick his brain about the Pearl 2 at Burning Amp, I walked away more knowledgable and with a few insights into the project. A great guy through and through.
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Old 10th November 2011, 08:05 PM   #1019
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Lets talk p1 5k multi .... checking it it reads 17.28 .... needs to be 0 ? pad G to pin ?


I'll look for the schematic too !

I don't remember seeing any on Wayne's original.

R
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Old 10th November 2011, 08:09 PM   #1020
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There is a pad that has the label "Set P1 for 0 volts DC"

I believe you put your DMM common to ground, DC volts (red lead) to that pad, and adjust the pot until the offset is gone.
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