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Old 20th December 2011, 12:55 AM   #1281
PierreQuiRoule is offline PierreQuiRoule  Canada
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Rich - The circuit behaves like the potentiometer is the wrong value. Please would you verify that it is a 5 kohm potentiometer you put in. It might be worthwhile removing and testing it. Do you have a spare one ?

We want 0 v at the P1 test point...

Pierre
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Old 20th December 2011, 01:24 AM   #1282
richluvsound is offline richluvsound  United Kingdom
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Thanks Pierre ,

will do . I did and it checks out perfect ...Clicks at 5.18K

Rich

Last edited by richluvsound; 20th December 2011 at 01:51 AM.
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Old 20th December 2011, 02:47 AM   #1283
PierreQuiRoule is offline PierreQuiRoule  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exojam View Post
found the answer in post 555. Sorry.

James
James - Yes, these NJR parts are the ones that Wayne listed in the article. I remember them having a lower noise specification than those made by other manufacturers. My Pearl 2 is very quiet with them.

Pierre

Last edited by PierreQuiRoule; 20th December 2011 at 02:57 AM.
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Old 20th December 2011, 02:56 AM   #1284
PierreQuiRoule is offline PierreQuiRoule  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richluvsound View Post
Thanks Pierre ,

will do . I did and it checks out perfect ...Clicks at 5.18K
Rich
Oh well... sorry about the trouble. Perhaps some pictures might give us a clue?

You are sure you cannot adjust the P1 test point to zero with the potentiometer?
The lowest that pad will go is 10 volts? Are you sure it is not -10 volts? It is a very sensitive adjustment. Quite easy to miss the 0 volt and overshoot into the negatives... Note that +/- 0.1 V would be close enough.

Pierre
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Old 20th December 2011, 04:34 PM   #1285
richluvsound is offline richluvsound  United Kingdom
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Trying to get the V to stay in the mV ....
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Old 20th December 2011, 06:58 PM   #1286
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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good picture ..... but problem is that all solder joints looks older than I saw on some tube amps from yore time
in this moment I'm doubting that you didn't scorched even some passive part , besides active ones ........
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Old 20th December 2011, 07:44 PM   #1287
nar is offline nar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
good picture ..... but problem is that all solder joints looks older than I saw on some tube amps from yore time
in this moment I'm doubting that you didn't scorched even some passive part , besides active ones ........
I hate to say it, but it is also the way the pic looks unfortunately.
There's either a problem with soldering technique, flux and/or soldering station usage. Sometimes older stations iron endpoints do not work well with unleaded. Sometimes temp is set too high, unadequate to the flux used and it can nick some active and even passive parts. Are you sure you do clean the iron end with a wet sponge or metallic equivalent between each solder point ? The endpoint should be perfectly clean and shiny between each solder point with no residue, black or even gold one. When I power up station, once temp is reached I always "clean" the endpoint by adding some fresh flux, and letting it burn for seconds before cleaning the endpoint perfectly with the wet sponge. Then my solder session can begin.

Could you post us pics of an other amp you made ? Do the joints also look like in the pic you just sent ?

Again, I hate to say. But some errors couldn't be corrected if the work is faulty.

Best regards,

nAr
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Last edited by nar; 20th December 2011 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 20th December 2011, 08:17 PM   #1288
richluvsound is offline richluvsound  United Kingdom
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The amp I made is on loan at the moment .... I use a wetting compound and clean the tip often . I use 380 C for most parts and 450 C for the ground plane parts .

I think I should strip the output stage and check all parts for failure . Use new parts where needed ....

I was told that I wasn't using enough heat , now I'm using too much LOL
I guess it must be rocket science after all .

Perhaps someone could recommend some products ... I have mentioned the products I use for your opinions in this thread.

Merry Christmas all

Rich
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Old 20th December 2011, 08:26 PM   #1289
nar is offline nar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richluvsound View Post
The amp I made is on loan at the moment .... I use a wetting compound and clean the tip often . I use 380 C for most parts and 450 C for the ground plane parts .

I think I should strip the output stage and check all parts for failure . Use new parts where needed ....

I was told that I wasn't using enough heat , now I'm using too much LOL
I guess it must be rocket science after all .

Perhaps someone could recommend some products ... I have mentioned the products I use for your opinions in this thread.

Merry Christmas all

Rich
Rich

Please try accordingly to your flux. For using my Cardas tri eutectic for 1st time I tested from 150C by increments. I then settled on 330C which is plain high. Instead of pushing the temp for ground planes connections, you'd better stay on the same temp & change the endpoint to take a bigger one, flat screwdriver model instead of ballpoint small, that fits small dense areas and tiny resistors.

I'm only willing to help.

Happy Christmas to everyone here, peace and joy in the world

Warm regards.

nAr
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Old 20th December 2011, 08:54 PM   #1290
richluvsound is offline richluvsound  United Kingdom
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Cheers nAr,

I bought my soldering station second hand ... Its been serviced ,but the points are not brand new .... perhaps Santa will be kind I use 1.5mm chisel
point that has seen better days ...

Rich
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