any matched transistrors needs to zen v4?

[elviukai]

hello everybody. my first duy audio project on 50%. 2 heatsinks is 45x18x10xfrom 4(!) aliuminium. wieghts 11pounds. it is self made from aliuminium parts upisde "T" forms. so looking link together from front looks like this"TTTTTTT" need any material thermal pasta to put in theese parts? i think this king huge heatsinks for 30w zen is ok. SORRY I HAVE NO PHOTO. but this is will be beauty..

I have a question. does any mater to mach q1/q2? only one teransistor is output transistor? so can I even pick various transistors. irfp 044 all, except q1, where toshiba or buz 900 special audio mosfet sis perfect(but one costs 15-20eur. so only q1 will be this kind)

also I find some irfp 044. at the same store. one price is 1.5eur. and the same name transistor in the same shop 15eur. 10 times bigger sum! the cheap one is not mosfet? because nowhere mentioned this. the second mentionerd( - ch mosfet or n-fet, dont remember now exactly)

so what it is?
any coments welcome

 

[till]

1.50€ is normal price for IRFP044N look at www.reichelt.de . No matching needed, you could also use for example IRFP044 for Q1 and a eventually cheaper IRFP240 or 150 for Q2 and 5.

Maybe difference in price is manufacturer or package? cheap IRFP /plastic package and expensive IRF / TO3 ?

 

[elviukai]

no, the same cheap package. also thre is toshiba sk xxxx which is the same package, but almost twice bigger irfp044. is practice to use other package(metalic one, as in my quad 303)?

I think metalic package will beter to cool? also I am thinking of use not 50v but 63V caps. they are not cheaper, but are better to bass region, also in power suply (50V) they wouldnt work 100% my quad 303 has 100v.

 

[till]

I doubt there is any difference between TO3 and TO247 devices in sound, and you are not in the region were you need to think about thermal resistance when using big heatsinks.... also use any cap with enough voltage - but i don´t expect any advantage in using a higher voltage cap than necessary before the regulator.... better spend the money for a good quality film C2 or high quality mechanical parts.

 

[elviukai]

maybe you are wright, but digits are digits. biger voltage caps are beter. I am not a fan of ultra price big electrolytic caps- elna cerafine etc. its just biiig price we got if we use "audiophilic caps" in filter section. philips bc caps is very good choise. not cheapest, but good ones.

c2? I am planink use wima metalized propylene, maybe scr,or audyn(twice expencive.) what else parts are critical in zen v4?

loutgoing cap c1? maybe one of them- c5/6/711/9? I have elna silmic for this purposes.
also what is nonsense shocky diodes refricter. as I understand they are for low curent, such premaps etc, but not power amp.

and why metal film resistors, not carbon? all audiophilic tube amps are carbon.

by the way, thanks for helping newbie in big diy world

 

[Panelhead]

maybe you are wright, but digits are digits. biger voltage caps are beter. I am not a fan of ultra price big electrolytic caps- elna cerafine etc. its just biiig price we got if we use "audiophilic caps" in filter section. philips bc caps is very good choise. not cheapest, but good ones.

c2? I am planink use wima metalized propylene, maybe scr,or audyn(twice expencive.) what else parts are critical in zen v4?

loutgoing cap c1? maybe one of them- c5/6/711/9? I have elna silmic for this purposes.
also what is nonsense shocky diodes refricter. as I understand they are for low curent, such premaps etc, but not power amp.

and why metal film resistors, not carbon? all audiophilic tube amps are carbon.

by the way, thanks for helping newbie in big diy world

I build mine for a low power, low current application, but to increase transient deleivery to the power regulator the raw power supply voltage was bumped up about three volts. A single 38 volt winding instead of series 18. At normal bias it runs 53 volts. In my mind increasing the raw voltage into the regulator allows energy available for tranients. Also used some 2.7 uH 6 amp chokes for a CLC filter.
For the C2 I used a 680 ufd BG NH 35v cap. The diodes are three bridges of MUR2020. And most of the resistors are AB carbon comp. The output are non-magnetic WW, and the the feedback is an old Holco.
I was very sucessfull at making the V4 sound like a tube amp. But it pales in comparison to a Aleph X I borrowed from MikeW. The X does a lot of things better, but would never be mistaken for a tube amp.
Sometime in the future I want to try to make an X sound like a tube amp! Maybe between now and then I will grow up and be happy with tube amps that sound like tube ams and SS that sounds like SS.
Good luck!

George

 

[elviukai]

i am newbie on making amps, but not listening. I use to be electrostaic speakers,phones fanatic. its hard to go out from it. lokks like your favourite thing is best. tube is best, solid is best, electrostatic is best.. there is no best. everywhere is advantages and disatvantages. for example I like low powered solid statea class (20-50w) and 91-94db/w/m speakers. i heard good home built tube based on 300b with aer. speedy, vocals amazing. but have you ever tried john philips sousa marches, like natural, except low frequencies. I am not a fan of bass, but aer.lowther, particalury esl 57 have not enought majestic bass. so few aodio systems would be a good. but $$$...
have any expierence with zen comparing with my owned amps,(quad 303/306/luxman etc) what does it sounds? it would be good for driving es phones stax?