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-   -   F2 and DCB1 parts selection - please advice! (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/155601-f2-dcb1-parts-selection-please-advice.html)

DQ 24th November 2009 04:11 PM

F2 and DCB1 parts selection - please advice!
 
Hello. I am about to buy the parts for these 2 wonderful designs (many many thanks to Mr. Pass, Salas and all the diyaudio community, it's great that you exist and do all this stuff! I'm very excited, this is my first project!) I'm trying to buy as much as possible from only one distributor and my best choice (I live in E.U.) appears to be Mouser. This limits my choices a bit, but I would still need some advices on what to choose - please remember, I'm a newbie.
1. For the DCB1:
a) what kind of metal film resistors in the PSU (not the 470R ones, all the others): Vishay, Xicon or KOA Speer? Does it make any difference? (price is similar) I vaguely remember reading something good about KOA Speer...
b) for the 470R carbon should I buy Takman or Kiwame? (from Diy HiFi Supply | Take Control)
c) the resistors in the signal path should preferably be Kiwame carbon, Takman carbon or Takman metal film?

2. For the F2:
a) for the big electrolytics I can only get Nichicon VR (miniature, 2.81 ), VY (higher temp., 4.69 ) or KW (audio, 5.25 ). Which one? Is the KW worth the price difference?
b) for the 1uf C1 I can only get a polyester Vishay from Mouser, is it good enough?
c) for the 10uF C5 I can get a rather expensive EPCOS polypropylene at 6.31 , an even more expensive WIMA polyprop at 10,38 or some polyester ones: WIMA at 3,46 , WIMA at 4,88 (up to 100C) or a cheaper Nichicon at 1,67 . Quite a large range of prices, what do you suggest?
d) for the 3300pF C9 polyprop. - WIMA or Vishay?
e) as for the resistors, I cannot get the metal oxide Panasonic that Mr. Pass is using, so again Vishay, Xicon or KOA Speer metal films? Is there a particular resistor in the F2 schematic that would benefit from a higher quality (again Takman metal, Takman carbon or Kiwame)?

Lots of questions, I know, but please try to post your opinion, even if on short. I hope to place the order tomorrow and I would really appreciate your advice (especially for the 2.a) question).

Thank you very much!

vitalstates 24th November 2009 04:25 PM

Hi DQ

this is very much out of date but it may be useful in determining the type of parts you are looking at for the F2. I don't know if RS deal with mainland europe but that may also be of help....

http://www.vitalstates.org/diy/amplifiers/f2-parts.pdf

Ed

massimo 24th November 2009 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vitalstates (Post 1991639)
I don't know if RS deal with mainland europe

:confused:
Is this enough?
RS Components International
80 countries all over the world, mainland Europe included

DQ 24th November 2009 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vitalstates (Post 1991639)
Hi DQ

this is very much out of date but it may be useful in determining the type of parts you are looking at for the F2. I don't know if RS deal with mainland europe but that may also be of help....

http://www.vitalstates.org/diy/amplifiers/f2-parts.pdf

Ed

Thanks. It's mainly about parts brand, such as Vishay vs. KOA Speer, or if going for higher quality is worth the price, as in Nichicon VR vs. VY vs. KW.

What means "surplectr" in you list? I'd like to get 15000 electrolytics for 0.4 Euro each.:)

DQ 25th November 2009 08:31 AM

Regarding RS - I had checked some of their capacitors, just to get an idea about their offer, and it's a smaller range, pricier offer than Mouser. At least this is the impression I got.

woodturner-fran 25th November 2009 01:44 PM

I'm very interested in the answers you get for the DCB1...

but from my experience, you are better off buying from mouser. Much bigger choice, will sell singly (most of the stuff in RS is in packs of 10), are cheaper, will give free shipping if you spend more than €75 etc etc.

Only thing is that they are poor on tranformers and hardware. Things like M3 screws, heatsinks etc etc.

Fran

DQ 25th November 2009 03:20 PM

Yes, Mouser will be for sure.
I'm very interested in those comments too:lickface:
Now please guys, 99% of you know more than I do in this hobby. What would you buy if you were me?

This pursuing for "better" is never ending, is it? Now I'd also like to know if I should try Fairchild FQP12P20 instead of the IRFP9240 and Fairchild FQP19N20C_Q (note the "_Q" in the code, the FQP12P20's correspondent would be FQP19N20C without _Q) instead of the IRFP240. The reason is that I've read a comment of Mr. Pass regarding a certain distortion issue in the p channel IRFP.

In the F2, I mean, not in the DCB1.


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