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#301 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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F5 is created to drive "easy" speakers
BA-1 and BA-2 have been designed especially fore our quest to drive more "problematic" speakers We need to mate F5 with properly matched speakers, to do a fair "listening evaluation" F5 is not supposed to drive any crazy speaker out there It will probably only really shine with properly matched peakers Using this or that kind of resistor comes second, in my opinion When some people prefer a certain component, it could easily relate to a great number of other things Things that may very well be completely different in other situations You need to figure a much bigger perspective It could seem like many "newbies" waste way too much energy on trying to do "the impossible" Some may even fail because of that |
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#302 | |
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not politcally affiliated
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
PRP's and Dale RN/CMF are pretty close IMO. Carbon Films I think color the music too much for me. So I am probably closer to your kind of ears. I actually am trying Caddocks in F5 in R11,12 R5-6 positions, these are the MP9xx resistors. Hopefully will have something to report soon. This will be the 4th F5 clone I've built (using the same sinks). I really like this amp.
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#303 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I agree. People who own large Krell amps heard my first attempt and were impressed. Also guy who own Spectral and $9k tube amps liked it very much. Dollar for dollar, it means something. It means it is a very good design. I'm proud to own it.
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Zen, BOZ, BOZ-J, BLS, B1, Mini-A, Audio Sector NOS DAC, Gain Clone, F5, CAT5 Speaker Cable, DIY Allen Wright ICs, MOX II |
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#304 |
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diyAudio Member
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Teabag, by 'easy speakers' do you mean above 4 ohms or do you mean not reactive loads??
_-_-bear
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#305 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MA
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Quote:
Thanks |
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#306 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
I knew it wasnt very clear Mostly it relates to exactly what you mention I know that And that the F5 should handle well With "easy" I meant, not too low sensitivity, but maybe also best to avoid heavy coned drivers, but not sure about that one But 4ohm speakers combined with a lowish 88db sensitivity would seem like the worst option Maybe worth to notice that most speakers are usually no higher than 6ohm in the demanding lows And if its only 85db it might hurt An "easy speaker" could be 2-3ohm, if it would be 99db Or a 4ohm, if being maybe 95db Just rough guessing |
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#307 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Front Row Center
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#308 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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With this size amp, I think its mostly a matter of whats most convenient fore the box design you have planned
At least as long as we stick to original design with one output pair, bias etc If more output devices, higher bias etc, ofcourse things changes But sure, if you drive it very hard into classAB, things may change in favour of more trafo power It might be able to handle close to 100watt classAB into 2ohm, maybe 70-80watt with less distortion I have no idea how it will sound tho, a wild guess But basicly I try to aim at a 1 : 10 ratio, pr channel, regarding amp to trafo Becomes exeedingly difficult with higher power amps, but no problems with smaller ones Dont know if it makes sense to aim at a 1:20 ratio, but thats possible too, easily |
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#309 |
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diyAudio Member
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Could be, my speakers are 8ohm/100dB
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#310 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Front Row Center
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