B1 builders thread - Page 61

voxxonline · 23rd December 2012, 03:50 PM

I was testing 1 channel only as I wasnt sure about assembly:
cd player- 1 channel (left) to input (red to signal green to gnd)
out -(as well only 1 channel-left) , red- signal green- gnd.
I ll make pictures shortly .

voxxonline · 23rd December 2012, 04:17 PM

2 more pictures
I dont have flux cleaning liquid so pardon for the backside
cables attached as before- just not to the cd and amp
I thought I have enough of the grey cells to solder that basic unit myself, but I was wrong :/
cables
back

6L6 · 04:38 PM

The pin (center) of an RCA (cinch) is the +

The outside bit is the ground.

You have your signal on the common ground, and thereby connected.

EDIT - when you get it connected properly, you will likely have no signal, as there is no connection at the selector switch.

voxxonline · 23rd December 2012, 04:41 PM

How to put jumpers properly for now to have a signal from one of the inputs ?
Thank you very much

6L6 · 23rd December 2012, 05:02 PM

I'm looking at the photo and am getting more confused. So I'm not going to make a recommendation. The switch logic is not looking correct to me, although I am probably looking at it wrong.

Did you kit come with instructions and/or a switch or switches for that position?

voxxonline · 23rd December 2012, 05:07 PM

No, apparently it is solely based on original b1, so instructions are from there.
Kit has no switch.
I can recall similar problem on audiocircle.com, maybe I can track the same thread about switch..

If no result I ll get original b1 pcb...

Marra · 23rd December 2012, 05:15 PM

Use a multimeter to check which input goes to which pad on the S100/S200 connections near the middle of the pcb then solder a link to the middle solder pad should do it. The middle ones should be the ones that connect to the potentiometer. I would recommend 63/37 rosin core solder; don't use lead free.

6L6 · 23rd December 2012, 05:16 PM

On the set of 3 pads marked, respectively, S100 and S200, you will need to connect the center pad to one of the outside pads. There are not that may combinations to try.

If you have a SPDT switch just connect it to one set of the pads, one switch position will work.

If you have a DPDT that will work as well

voxxonline · 23rd December 2012, 05:20 PM

I think I have found:
R2 L1
OUTR OUTL
R1 L2

From here

6L6 · 23rd December 2012, 05:22 PM

I agree.

Do you plan on having more than one input? If so you will need 2 DPST switches.

But for now connect R2 to center and L2 to center.

23rd December 2012, 03:50 PM	#601
voxxonline diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Bexleyheath, Kent	I was testing 1 channel only as I wasnt sure about assembly: cd player- 1 channel (left) to input (red to signal green to gnd) out -(as well only 1 channel-left) , red- signal green- gnd. I ll make pictures shortly . __________________ </Addiction> My project map / slowing down for summer

23rd December 2012, 04:17 PM	#602
voxxonline diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Bexleyheath, Kent	2 more pictures I dont have flux cleaning liquid so pardon for the backside cables attached as before- just not to the cd and amp I thought I have enough of the grey cells to solder that basic unit myself, but I was wrong :/ cables back __________________ </Addiction> My project map / slowing down for summer

23rd December 2012, 04:34 PM	#603
6L6 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Denver, Colorado	The pin (center) of an RCA (cinch) is the + The outside bit is the ground. You have your signal on the common ground, and thereby connected. EDIT - when you get it connected properly, you will likely have no signal, as there is no connection at the selector switch. __________________ llustrated Build Guides - Pass Pearl 1 - Pass B1 - - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - -O2 HPA - - Pass F4 Last edited by 6L6; 23rd December 2012 at 04:38 PM.

23rd December 2012, 04:41 PM	#604
voxxonline diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Bexleyheath, Kent	How to put jumpers properly for now to have a signal from one of the inputs ? Thank you very much __________________ </Addiction> My project map / slowing down for summer

23rd December 2012, 05:02 PM	#605
6L6 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Denver, Colorado	I'm looking at the photo and am getting more confused. So I'm not going to make a recommendation. The switch logic is not looking correct to me, although I am probably looking at it wrong. Did you kit come with instructions and/or a switch or switches for that position? __________________ llustrated Build Guides - Pass Pearl 1 - Pass B1 - - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - -O2 HPA - - Pass F4


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23rd December 2012, 05:07 PM	#606
voxxonline diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Bexleyheath, Kent	No, apparently it is solely based on original b1, so instructions are from there. Kit has no switch. I can recall similar problem on audiocircle.com, maybe I can track the same thread about switch.. If no result I ll get original b1 pcb... __________________ </Addiction> My project map / slowing down for summer

23rd December 2012, 05:15 PM	#607
Marra diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Near Lincoln	Use a multimeter to check which input goes to which pad on the S100/S200 connections near the middle of the pcb then solder a link to the middle solder pad should do it. The middle ones should be the ones that connect to the potentiometer. I would recommend 63/37 rosin core solder; don't use lead free.

23rd December 2012, 05:16 PM	#608
6L6 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Denver, Colorado	On the set of 3 pads marked, respectively, S100 and S200, you will need to connect the center pad to one of the outside pads. There are not that may combinations to try. If you have a SPDT switch just connect it to one set of the pads, one switch position will work. If you have a DPDT that will work as well __________________ llustrated Build Guides - Pass Pearl 1 - Pass B1 - - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - -O2 HPA - - Pass F4

23rd December 2012, 05:20 PM	#609
voxxonline diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Bexleyheath, Kent	I think I have found: R2 L1 OUTR OUTL R1 L2 From here __________________ </Addiction> My project map / slowing down for summer

23rd December 2012, 05:22 PM	#610
6L6 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Denver, Colorado	I agree. Do you plan on having more than one input? If so you will need 2 DPST switches. But for now connect R2 to center and L2 to center. __________________ llustrated Build Guides - Pass Pearl 1 - Pass B1 - - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - -O2 HPA - - Pass F4

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