APOX volume-input for Aleph P1.7 question

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Hi all,

After playing with a Thel pre-amp, three different tube pre-amps I decided to build a B1. B1 one was the best pre-amp I have ever used in my system but I did not have enough gain.

I stumbled into a pair ready build P1.7 boards and decided to buy them.
The seller also offered me a ready build APOX. Just what I needed so bought that also. So here comes the problem an question. I'm not an electronics engineer so I need a little help.

Question 1; I have build a 5V powersupply. Can I just connect this to the APOX IR1 (rev3), the APOX-1 (rev3) and the APOX-IS 1(rev2)?

Question 2; It took me some time to understand the term "daisy-chaining" but I managed. Is it correct to daisy-chain from IR-1 to APOX-1 I2C "IN" and from APOX-1 I2C "OUT" to IS-1 I2C. Is there a difference between I2C SV 1 or SV2 on IS-1?

Question 3: If I have done all the above, can I connect power without smoke or flames?

So far the questions. There will prabably more in the future... :bulb:
 
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I took a quick look. I must admit I am not sure exactly what you have.
The designer frequents this board. Google of APOX brought up this thread http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/dantimax/42589-remote-control-kits.html

Having said that, everything I saw was 74xxHC TTL 5 volt parts. The Sales blurb specified +5V at unspecified current.

If you want more intelligent help, post the links to the products you have.
I am very poor at guessing.


HTH

Doug
 
Hi Doug. Thanks for your reply.

Other information is here: Apox Controls
The APOX is not for sale anymore...

This is how it looks.

Bottom PCB is a double deck. Connected through SV1.
My guess is to connect the APOX 1 (middle PCB) to SV1.

Pic below is how I think it should be done.

4005879766_edeb32dc10_b.jpg
 

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I have read the instructions. My drawing is based on it. But there is a little voice in my head that says "be carefull". After reading the manual again I still come to the conclusion that my drawing is correct. I can connect the red line to SV1 because that is also where the connection with the board below is.
Do you agree?
 
I took a look at your products.

You have correctly drawn the control hookups.
Basically the I2C control path is a daisy chain. Controller hooks to first board, first board hooks to second board. Repeat if additional boards.
Looking at the schematic, input and output I2C are just jumpered together.
Really no electrical difference if you use the input or output for I2C. Use one or the other to connect the orange to the bottom board.

I assume you have a handle on the audio path, which is not shown in your drawing.

Looks like 5V at less than 2 amps is required to run this setup.

Nice products.

Good Luck.

Doug
 
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You don't show the second IS1 board, but one connector goes where you have shown it with the question mark. I believe it can go in either position. Then the other connector is used to "daisy chain" it to the second IS1. I don't think you can hurt anything with these connections.

Sheldon

edit: Just notice Doug's reply. I concur.
 
You don't show the second IS1 board, but one connector goes where you have shown it with the question mark. I believe it can go in either position. Then the other connector is used to "daisy chain" it to the second IS1. I don't think you can hurt anything with these connections.

Sheldon

edit: Just notice Doug's reply. I concur.
Thanks.
Always happy to have a second pair of eyes.

Doug
 
Always happy to have a second pair of eyes.

That's right!:)

So I fired the whole thing up tonight. No smoke! Everything seems to work exept my power supply. Just found out my transformer is not big enough.
(only 1A and I need just a little more) I guess thats just a small problem.

Doug,

I think I know how to connect it to the preamp but I need to look in to this a bit more.

Thanks Doug and Sheldon for helping me out so far!
 
I had a printtransformer lying around and made a PS with a LM317 (kit from Dantimax). Problem was cooling down the LM 317. Bought a littleheatsink and now it works fine. I think I'm going to buy a transformer with less Volts. (12V to get 5V is not the way to go unless you want to cook your steak on the heatsink :) )
 
It's time for the next question...

The dispay shows text that I would like to change. Also the brightness of the display is set very low. According to this link:
Apox Controls
it should be possible to change text and brightness.
As far as I understand this should also be possible without connecting a computer to it.

Is there a standard way to enter some kind of menu to make these changes?
 
Is there a standard way to enter some kind of menu to make these changes?

There is, but I don't remember exactly how to do it, and it's not detailed in the instructions (as you have found). I do recall, that it wasn't too hard to figure out. Just gotta start pushing and turning the controls on the digital potentiometers until you see the logic behind it.

Sheldon
 
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