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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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I'm building my first amp and, as the title obviously indicates, I'm going to try an F5. I'm not going to use any pre-made pcb's, and I'm just learning electronics, so I am looking to have someone fact check this layout. Yes, it's Mr. Pass' exact layout, but it's hard enough for me to reverse engineer this with my skill so it makes it a little easier for me to visualize. Anyway, enough excuses, please review this and let me know if I connected everything like my picture, would it be ok?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oslo
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The connections drawn seems correct. But only the positive part is drawn.
You may have good reasons not to get a PCB from e.g. Peter Daniel. I will however strongly suggest you get PCBs for this project. See F5 pcb group buy... for details. This makes errors much less likely. Regds R-K |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Thank you for your response. Yes, I figured I would try to make sure I understood V+ for one channel and if I could at least get that right, I would finish out the whole channel. I'm also going to try and separate the power supply.
This is all a big learning experience as much as it is building a cool amp that I can use when I'm done. I'm really a learn by doing kind of guy. I can read something over and over, but until I blow it up, er, I mean, get it to work, it doesn't always sink in. I am also looking at doing something eclectic with the "case" and "pcb" so pre-fabbed pcb's don't fit the bill. |
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#4 |
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The one and only
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I like to lay out boards just like the schematic. Works
every time. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Philadelphia
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You'll learn much more doing it yourself. PCB's are nice of course, but it ain't the same. More power to you!
__________________
Vince Harris |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sure you can do it, shouldn't be a problem: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/3840-beaty-p2p-wiring-post34126.html
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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I have both the PeteDaniel boards, and Cvillers
Both very nice But I still like to play with this Just be aware of errors They seem to happen every time I make changes Would be fun to try and make double sided boards, but Im certain I would choose hardwire on thin Pertinax plate But playing with the board layout still seems to give me some idea about how to hardwire it Last edited by tinitus; 7th October 2009 at 04:15 AM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Thank you all for the information and kind words. I'll be sure to update as I progress with the project.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Well, here goes the full channel. I don't think I screwed anything up moving it all around, but there's always a chance. Would there be a problem if I actually terminated all the connectors as diagrammed in the middle there? I was trying to sift through the thousands of posts for what should and shouldn't be near each other, but most everything that came up was PS related.
I was even thinking of pulling out all of the center R1-R2, R5-R10, Q1-Q2 onto another board entirely. What would be the pros & cons of that? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Hi
I think Nelson has stated that layout doesnt make significant difference I think it was also stated that its important not to have input signal close to supply rails And THAT you seem to have But your layout looks good I may try to do layout that way Last edited by tinitus; 8th October 2009 at 05:08 AM. |
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