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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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I finished the electronics for my F2 last night. I still need to do final assembly on the chassis.
It's a great amp! I'm powering some tiny 3" u-fonken full range drivers, and what it has done for them is amazing! there is a LOT more bass, compared to the lm1875 amp I had them hooked up to. It sounds beautiful. On par w/ my 300b set, but not as soft(i don't mean quiet, but maybe slow is another word for it).. I'd say the F2 is technically better, tho I think I still like my 300b a little more. (the 300b was also my first complete amp project using all good parts, etc etc... so I'm biased) Also this F2 gets loud! louder than my 7 watt set, and about equal w/ my 10 watt lm1875! Maybe I'm mistaking clarity for volume or something. well, here it is so far. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hong Kong
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You might have heard more mid to treble and took it as louder? You do need a network to equalize the system frequency response. I am using a Fostex FE168 sigma, and need to tune down my treble by a 3-4dB shelf to get the right balance.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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I am going to play with the compensation network tonight. But, they sound great even w/out it. So far my impression, though, is more bass than anything! I keep going over to be sure my sub is actually turned off, and it is
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hong Kong
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Yes, more bass. But I bet you will find better bass with the network. Some damping is required to lift both the quality and quantity of the bass from your speaker. Have fun!
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Cograts, it looks like you've made a very neat job of it too. Same goes for those speakers.
__________________
"The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." Robert M Pirsig. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Thanks! and you get the idea for the chassis... The heatsinks are the 4 sides. I'll have a plate for the top 1/2 of the front and back, as the front and back heatsinks are only 4" tall. The side heatsinks are 8" tall. A perforated plate for the top. Might put the thing on wheels because it is heavy!.
I just added the compensation network (the one recommended for the FF165K), and it is definitely more balanced. I'm quite happy w/ this combination of speaker/amp. My only complaint is that I wish it got warmer! I think I went overboard on my heatsinks. Not exactly the "small" computer speaker setup it started out as, but I couldn't be happier! I no longer think "this sounds really good for such small speakers", but now just "this sounds really good" Last edited by wicked1; 1st September 2009 at 05:23 PM. |
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#7 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Diego,CA
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Congrats, what devices are on the smaller heatsinks? the current source FET or the gain stage FET? Which FET produces more heat?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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actually, the small heatsinks just have the power supply diodes on them. The diodes don't need all that, but the way I'm building my chassis, the entire chassis will be like one giant heat sink, spreading the heat out from everything, evenly.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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My transformer buzzes! It's very oversized, too, at 600va. Unfortunately when I pack everything together as it will be when I complete the chassis, I pick up that buzz in one of the channels! Another obstical, but I'm sure I'll get it sorted.
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