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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Toronto, ON
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OK, suppose I have an active speaker project coming together. Suppose also that its a 3way using a B&C DE250 on a Geddes 12" waveguide for treble and a Lambda TD12M (96db/w) for mid and a TD15X for bass (powered by a UcD 400).
Which F's (or Alephs, or otherwise?) would you build for the DE250's and TD12M? No passive components betwixt and between. I have a dozen Lovultech JFETs if it matters. I have 4 of the big Conrad heatsinks that I bought in one of the prior group buys. If it makes a difference suppose I have a DEQX HDP3 and the crossover points will be ~1khz and 200-300hz. If it also matters, tubes are my reference as I tend to prefer them most times and that is what I've built to date (aside from UcD amps). Also, I am not really a little girl with a guitar music person. I tend to prefer progressive metal and large scale orchestral. Jazz ain't really my cupa-T. Last edited by JoshK; 28th August 2009 at 12:32 AM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Tough choice.
Your situation can support current amps. Tempting. IIRC, you built an Aikido. F4 would work with that. F5 is very versatile. And you can change between them because case, and power supply are common. Good luck with your decision. Doug
__________________
Scienta sine ars nihil est - Science without Art is nothing. (Implies the converse as well) Mater tua criceta fuit, et pater tuo redoluit bacarum sambucus |
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#3 |
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The one and only
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Indonesia
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i am interested on this concept also
Bi-amp or Tri-Amp. Im using F5 with MarkAudio Alpair 10FR, i got nothing to complain, except my living room quite large prob 35-40m2 and still got hallway to the room and path to the kitchen. Which i feel the dynamics is not enough. The sound is remarkable, detailed, sweet and precise. Im lusting for the dynamics that i heard from platinum audio solo in my friend's place powered by 80watts Tube amp Nelson use F5 for the bass and F3 and upcoming J2 for his Fullrange, i think that give us a hint where to go cheers |
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#5 | |
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not politcally affiliated
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Mike |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Doug
__________________
Scienta sine ars nihil est - Science without Art is nothing. (Implies the converse as well) Mater tua criceta fuit, et pater tuo redoluit bacarum sambucus |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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to which list, add "prescient" ?
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Indonesia
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Quote:
thanks |
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#9 |
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not politcally affiliated
diyAudio Member
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I can try -
I am using a Vistaton NoBox like setup. Two Woofs on bottom, a Lowther DX4 and a Fostex T90A-ex on top. A notch filter similiar to Basszilla, The F5 can drive low ohm, so I hook it up to T-bass first 'T'-bass drive for OB LF drivers. This can help a bit with low end extension. The signal for the bass goes to a DEC2496 crossover. The Top F5 goes to mid-ups via passive network. If I do it again, I will make the baffles a bit bigger, but wood working, is a weak spot for me. I had a friend help. I really like open baffle, and the F5, with T-bass or not, seems to 'image' bass as well, first time I really noticed that. It's not subwoofer bass, but is real, and does not leave me wanting for more. My listening area is part of a 35x20 room, so they maybe too much for a smaller room. |
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