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#61 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Quote:
I am running CRCRC with 22000uf for each C and 0.11 ohm 20W for each R . I have a ripple measured on a scope of about 0.5V on full load (24.8V-0-24.8V). Edwin |
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#62 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Quote:
Just for the record... I hear NO HUM whatsoever... If you do not short any wire, just let them hang around, you can hear a very very very small 50hz on a 95db speaker... When you connect to something or short the thing it is dead silent, no hiss, no hum, nothing! Edwin |
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#63 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Hi you cap engineers
I decided to change the caps in my AlephX because their max voltage is 25V and that's not high enough. The actual caps are: EEGBA1E683FE : http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/23859.pdf Problem is I can't decide which on to buy: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/363.pdf 17473 or http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/360.pdf 17473 The first one is much cheaper and if the second one wouldn't improve anything, it would be wasted money. Any thoughts? /Hugo |
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#64 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Schiedam
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In my opinion it's better to use a capacitor with a lower capacitance with a higher ESR, ripple current, lower internal impedance. (they all depend on each other).
If you look at the datasheets of the 363 and the 360, you'll see that at 40 Volts (which you'll probably need), the 363 has @ 150000 uF an Ir (100Hz) of 20 Amperes. The 360 only goes to about 68000 uF with the same case size. Here the Ir at 100 Hz is 30 Amperes. Even for a lower capacity with the 360's the ripple current is higher, the ESR is lower, and the internal impedance is also lower. And yes, they would probably be much more expensive. I don't know if it's worth it, but if you really want a low impedance of your power supply, that's one way to do it.. Also, about your speaker setup. You might want to try to suspend some damping material (pritex) from the ceiling on a few wires. If you care more about looks, you can also try a curtain or something like that. I have troubles with reflections (if you clap your hands, you'll hear it echo), and with the pritex plates in place it's gone. |
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#65 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Netherlands
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Netlist
[B]Hi you cap engineers I decided to change the caps in my AlephX because their max voltage is 25V and that's not high enough. The actual caps are: EEGBA1E683FE : [QUOTE] I use 6 times 22000uf 63V BC Components type 154 elco's per channel. In a CRCRC with each R=0.11 ohm 20W (4 per channel) . This gives a ripple of total overall top-to-top 0.5V on 25V-0-25V with about 400W load. This is enough for a dead silent no hiss no humm power supply on my 92db/W/m Nautilus 802's. Perhaps you can compare specs of the caps: http://www.bccomponents.com/Uploads/...ets/154pec.pdf Edwin |
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#66 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: -
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Netlist and/or Edwin
did you guys look at the output of the amp using a scope? If so how does the waveform look in proximity to clipping at say 10 kHz looks vs. at 1 kHz? |
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#67 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Quote:
When using a square waves the rising and lowering times of the squares looked the same at 1khz 10Khz and 100Khz... I use 10pF instead of the 5pF. With 5pF I got overshoot on the square wave. Edwin |
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#68 | ||
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Quote:
Together with 8 X 0.1ohm 25W resistors. I took the 47.000 because they have the best Farad/money value. I'll keep you informed. Quote:
/Hugo - will take some pictures. |
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#69 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Took some "unpolished" pictures.
Some of them look quite frightening and maybe some improvements could be done to the amp. All squarewaveshots taken just before clipping. Upper wave= input lower wave = output first pic: 1Khz load 4ohm. |
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#70 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
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10Khz 4ohm
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