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#31 | |
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diyAudio Member
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The subject of spacing devices for heatsink mounting always comes up. I already tried to explain it few times in a past that small boards are much more practical, as they offer more options in building.
It is OK to have long board (like First Watt) in a commercial product when you deal with one heatsink type only and use that heatsink in all your other products. With infamous GB offers, we sometimes deal with hundreds of boards and everybody uses different heatsinks, that's why I prefer to make boards suitable for EVERYBODY. Those who want to make it long, can simply add extention wires. I'd also like to mention that at least 200 of A30 boards have been sold in a past, 300 F4 boards and 300 F5 boards, all with a compatible spacing of devices. I simply cannot do it any other way now. Besides, those are only 30watt amps, the heat is not really an issue here. Quote:
So yes, I am considering AJ-X amp. See attached pic. I could make 2.5 x 8" board with center piece designed specifically for X version. Two side boards are breakable and fully fuctional single channels of Aleph J. I somehow need to figure out how to elegantly interface all 3 boards for X-men option. And also, it would finally be a long board I'd like to keep the price below $20 including shipping. I could also offer boards for free and simply charge $20 shipping I can use any desired pin layout for input devices (SJ74 would certainly be given priority)
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
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Peter,
I don't think you need to make both power stage in an X breakable, though I won't object either. Just one side breakable is OK. It is IMHO better to have the break line on the non-copper side, so that the conductors will remain intact. Otherwise jumpers for the rails are not really ideal. Below USD 20 sounds good. I might want 8 if the layout suits me and price is right, but 2-4 at least. And please use pin layout of 2SJ109. As shown, 2x 2SJ74 will always fit to the 2SJ109 pin layout. Cheers, Patrick |
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cleveland ohio
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Can I simply replace the boards in my aleph 30s with these new boards???
I'm good for 6 channels... |
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#34 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Who is perfect around here??? Certainly not me Don't worry about me, keep it up
__________________
“Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.” Dr. Seuss |
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Round Rock, TX
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I would be interested if someone can tell me if my Spica TC-50 will play nice and behave themselves with the Aleph J.
Specs are around 83 to 84 dB sensitivity and is a 4 ohm design. I know Mr. Pass said he designed the J more in line with 8 ohm speakers. Does an Aleph 3 make better sense for my speakers? I have cviller's F5 boards but I'll wait on that build until I can afford a nice set of efficient speakers. |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: london
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ok Peter fair point could use extra LONG connecting wires to the devices, still not sure about the heat issue though. If you have a significant number of buyers wanting it this way then I will just have to accept it.
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#37 |
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Formerly Thanh1973
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Hi audiojoy you dont have to mount using wires or using a very narrow chassis.
If the heat sinks are tall enough you can mount the whole pcb parrallel with the face of the heat sink. So you can use any dimension chassis (ie width and depth) as long as the heatsinks on each side are tall enough to fit the whole pcb to it (ie one heatsink per pcb). Have a look at the pictures here to give you a beer idea of what I am trying to say. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...77#post1847777 |
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Peter,
Could I be put down for 2? Oh by the way this would be my first post but, I've been researching this forum quite a bit in the last several months. There is a wealth of information. I'm currently collecting parts for the F5 and B1. Thanks to Jack, Cvillar, and Nelson Pass I was able to get started with the pcbs and some components. Just wanted to say hello to everyone. Eric |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
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I am interested in one stereo set.
Regards Karlo |
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: london
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Thanks Thanh
got it now--- that board was for a single channel--- thats my inexperience showing here. Just thought having opposing output devices meant it was a stereo set up. Sorry my fault , ok in that case the wire connectors would be very short indeed, or if the depth of the enclosure side panel is deep enough it should be able to fit the whole circuit board onto the heatsink!! In that case apologies for the confusion earlier on in the thread. |
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