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#1381 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Toronto & Innisfil
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Quote:
Thank you for your help, I was able to find the problem with your help, I wired the positive and negitive backwards out of the bridge rectifier through fuses(my synptom of the problem with the blown fuses which I have now moved to the power supply output with two 6amp quick blow fuses, these are not blowing now. Now when I turn on the amp I get no music untill I turn the power off, then I hear the music for 2 seconds. I have not set my bias yet, could this be the trouble ? Thank You for your Help Ian |
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#1382 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: City Of Joy
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I give up :-) I know information is there but after reading through 100+ pages of 85c & 105c capacitor, CLC or CRC, am a wee bit nervous.
I have 8 ohm speakers (so bias current requirement is low) and I don't want 100 watt/ channel (J-X pls). I need 40~60 watt / channel.Unlike Papa I don't like flooring the accelarator & crusing at 55mph (happens with 5% of my low gain music on the J) So keeping bias intact 900mA/1A (4 or 8 mosfet???) per mosfet what would be the rail voltage (without any significant component change) If there is no easy answer :-) guess I have to troll F5x & AX threads :-) |
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#1383 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: City Of Joy
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As per Peters Wiki http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/Aleph_J-X
With 1.8A bias per side is about 180 watts per ch. Is this for J-X or the J. If I put the values in the Aleph X excel (8 mosfets biased at 900mA each reaching a dissipation 173 watt.) it gives me ~50Wx8ohm so i guess it is for the J Last edited by kroyin; 20th January 2013 at 06:09 AM. |
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#1384 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore
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Quote:
Aleph J-X is not a formal Papa's design but an adaptation. Aleph J is complex enough compared to F5 and Aleph JX is lot more complex with the daughter card etc. If you are like the sound of Aleph J, just build one and use it. If you want higher power amp, build a F5T V3 rather than a JX. My two cents. Cheers.
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DIY F5 Turbo V3, DIY F5 Turbo V2, DIY F5, DIY F5 Toshiba Dual output, DIY Aleph J, DIY Fostex 206 BLH, DIY Altec Onken with 515B LF & 288H HF, Behringer Digital Xover, Technics SP10 MKII & SL-1210, EMT938 TT. |
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#1385 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Kroyin - upping the bias won't make more power available if it takes higher than your rail voltage to get that current into the 8ohms.
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#1386 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: City Of Joy
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I already have the J
, i didnt like F5 (i had one, must have been a bad implementation).My F5T v2 is couple of weeks away but i have a sneaky feeling that i won't like it (though i am better prepared with Arta & Soundcard to tweak with P3 ).So if i get to like the F5T, i'll stop there. Worst case scenario i am thinking X-ing two mini aleph J (16V rails with 1A bias) hopefully reusing the F5T chassis |
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#1387 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: City Of Joy
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Though I have no clue about how much power I'll end up with (x-ing 2 16 v 1a minis)
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#1388 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: City Of Joy
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Quote:
The daughter board doesn't have any inputs from the PSU while the two output boards have their individual +-V supply. So do I power both the output boards and wait for some magic
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Asus Netbook (ALSA+MPD)->EBay 4xWM8741 DAC->DIY DCB1 preamp with Optical Volume Control ->DIY F5T V2-> DIY 2.5 way Peerless Nomex by Troels Gravesen |
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#1389 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
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both main boards need to be connected to PSU
daughter board will have power delivered by Divine Force itself
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my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to clean thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; Mighty ZM's Bloggg;I'm dumb
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#1390 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Somewhere in the south
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