Aleph J-X Amp Project - Page 101 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Pass Labs

Pass Labs This forum is dedicated to Pass Labs discussion.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 1st October 2010, 11:23 AM   #1001
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: south of the border
Default Thanks to SCAIFF001 & BobEllis

Thank you very much for your "Machete work" through
the Aleph J-X building jungle...
Read your's every post very carefully & stepping (carefully) behind your back...
Have Peter's PCBs & almost all parts...

  Reply With Quote
Old 1st October 2010, 02:05 PM   #1002
diyAudio Member
 
BobEllis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Upstate NY
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCAIFF001 View Post
Thank you for this detailed comment, I have a better understanding of it but have to read it a few times b4 I can research what you have told me.

How do I bypass the inrush limiter after the surge, a pysical switch ?

I have not ordered a Triac, is it importent, I know nothing about them ?

Thank You for your help, I will recieve the rest of my parts ordered after 06October2010 so I can then assemble my amplifier.
Those who see a need usually have a relay bypass the triac driven by a time delay (soft start)

Triacs are only needed if you want to use them as a power switch, as done in the A75.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SCAIFF001 View Post
Hi Bob, and others("et.al."-Latin for "and others")

I have recieved my soldering iron and filter fan, I purchased a BlackJack SolderWorks BK2000+ soldering station, and Cardas "TRI EUTECTIC ROLL SOLDER". I dont think it is working properly because I have to set the tempiture to 300degree celcius to just hardly melt the solder, which has a melting point of 220degree celcius. I have been practice soldering components on an F5 psu and have to have the iron set to 350degree to attach components to the board, but attached very poorly, 400degree celcius solder iron works well and creates good solder connections between the component and the board.
Is this normal, or do I have either a bad batch of solder, or need to recalabrate my soldering iron, to do this I will have to purchase some sort of thermometer which will probibly be expensive wast of money if the soldering iron is set properly from the factory.
Dose anyone have personal experiance that is consistant with the iron tempitures I have had to use, because many of my components say that I can use a 260degree celcius iron for ten seconds or the component will distroy due to my neglagance with soldering tempitures.

Thank You all for you continued responses, Very Many Thanks.
No need for recalibrating your temperature setting or thermometer, just crank up the heat until things flow smoothly. The temperature required will depend on the tip size, and the components being soldered. For heavier wires/leads/ traces like a PSU, I use a 2 mm tip and run it up to 425C or more. Remember that those nice heavy copper traces are big heat sinks and will suck a lot of heat out of your tip. The idea is to heat the joint quickly, melt the solder and get out. Tip temperatures too low mean that you'll heat the joint longer, more heat will transfer up the leads and traces and there's more chance that you'll get a cold joint.
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st October 2010, 03:28 PM   #1003
udailey is offline udailey  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Also, please consider getting some liquid solder flux. This will make solder flow much faster and end up with beautiful joints. Keep a damp sponge nearby and wipe the solder off of the iron often as it gets dirty and is harder to solder when it is dirty.
Put your iron on the pad you are going to solder but dont touch the part at all with the iron. Let the pad heat up. Put a blob of solder on the iron tip and then when the solder begins to spread out over the pad you roll the iron over to the lead of the component and as soon as wicks up the lead of the component you remove the iron. The pad heating might take a while but if the pad is heated and the solder has started to flow to the pad from the iron it will now only take a second or two to flow up the lead of the component when you roll the iron over to the component.
If you are using a very small solder tip it will take much longer to heat anything and actually may not ever heat enough on some pads and components. Larger parts and traces require a larger soldering iron tip. I use a chisel tip for almost everything. I love it. It holds a lot of heat and makes soldering very fast.
Uriah
__________________
purchase LDRs anytime Also try my Resistor Replacers or LDR based Input Selector Email me. diyldr@gmail.com
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd October 2010, 01:27 PM   #1004
diyAudio Member
 
ggetzoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Southwest
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobEllis View Post
That should be fine. I use this Circuit Specialists Inc. - CSI Deluxe Station w/Analog Display (CSI-STATION1A) changing tips depending on what I am soldering.

Oddly enough, having enough power and a high enough tip temperature is important to avoid overheating the components you are soldering.
I live 15 min. from these guys, buy stuff there all the time. Great prices.
__________________
Airline Pilot-If it's not Boeing I'm not going.
"Brain as big as a planet..." {sic} Nelson Pass
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th October 2010, 10:14 PM   #1005
goober5 is offline goober5  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Hi Bill and Bob

So I tried again with the other channel using all new parts and a new pair of 2sj74bl matched to 8.78 mA. I'm using the same fets as the last time. I made sure the board is ok before soldering anything. I have the signal ground from R2 and (-) power terminal connected to the safety earth through a CL60.

The output is still 5.0 V (+) relative to the ground. I see that Q5 and 6 run hot where as Q7 and 8 has not heat. I verified that this is not an issue with the FETs by switching the FETs. The voltages are below:
R7 - 4.8V, R8 - 8.3 V, R16 to 19 - 0.5 V.
Vgs Q7 & 8 - 4.2 V and Q5 & 6 - 4.0 V.

I tried shorting the inputs with no change in the voltages. When I tied the (-) input to the ground the output increased to 5.6 V (+) relative to ground.

The output dropped to 0V when I disconnect the ground from R2. But in this case there was 4.5 V between the R2 ground pin and the ground.

Any advise please
Thanks
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th October 2010, 06:30 AM   #1006
diyAudio Member
 
SCAIFF001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Toronto & Innisfil
Default soldering a component with no leeds to psb

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobEllis View Post
Those who see a need usually have a relay bypass the triac driven by a time delay (soft start)

Triacs are only needed if you want to use them as a power switch, as done in the A75.




No need for recalibrating your temperature setting or thermometer, just crank up the heat until things flow smoothly. The temperature required will depend on the tip size, and the components being soldered. For heavier wires/leads/ traces like a PSU, I use a 2 mm tip and run it up to 425C or more. Remember that those nice heavy copper traces are big heat sinks and will suck a lot of heat out of your tip. The idea is to heat the joint quickly, melt the solder and get out. Tip temperatures too low mean that you'll heat the joint longer, more heat will transfer up the leads and traces and there's more chance that you'll get a cold joint.
Thank You for this quote, I am following it as directed, I use my largest tip 45degree 4mm at 480 degree(s) heat and then solder getting out of it as quickly as the first solder blob on the iron is sucked into the connection.

I have another problem, I ordered a part not knowing what I was getting into, it is a 3W Resistor R9 to R13 0.47ohms, TYCO ELECTRONICS / CGS - SMW3R47JT - RESISTOR, 3W 5% R47(see parts data sheet below), it has no leeds, do I need to order an other 3watt resistor, or can I mount these onto the board because they are the right size, I only checked the physical size before I ordered this component, I thought it might be a stronger more durable resistor because of the voltage it can handle, I think I have made an expensive mistake because I cannot return these resistors ?

Thank You for your Help

Ian Scaiff(scatterbrain001)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf TYCO CGS-SMW3R47JT-RESISTOR 3W R47.pdf (127.2 KB, 47 views)

Last edited by SCAIFF001; 7th October 2010 at 06:39 AM. Reason: error in data sheet name, adjusted to R47 from 47
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th October 2010, 09:51 AM   #1007
RIP
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Central Florida
Quote:
Originally Posted by goober5 View Post
Hi Bill and Bob

So I tried again with the other channel using all new parts and a new pair of 2sj74bl matched to 8.78 mA. I'm using the same fets as the last time. I made sure the board is ok before soldering anything. I have the signal ground from R2 and (-) power terminal connected to the safety earth through a CL60.

The output is still 5.0 V (+) relative to the ground. I see that Q5 and 6 run hot where as Q7 and 8 has not heat. I verified that this is not an issue with the FETs by switching the FETs. The voltages are below:
R7 - 4.8V, R8 - 8.3 V, R16 to 19 - 0.5 V.
Vgs Q7 & 8 - 4.2 V and Q5 & 6 - 4.0 V.

I tried shorting the inputs with no change in the voltages. When I tied the (-) input to the ground the output increased to 5.6 V (+) relative to ground.

The output dropped to 0V when I disconnect the ground from R2. But in this case there was 4.5 V between the R2 ground pin and the ground.

Any advise please
Thanks
Hi Goober,

The safety ground should not be an issue unless you have somehow wired the CL60 into the signal ground path. If you have directly grounded the PS to the chassis please remove it.

Please check the drop across R18-19 again. If Q7-8 are not conducting there cannot be voltage across them.

Maybe a couple pics would help.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th October 2010, 04:15 AM   #1008
goober5 is offline goober5  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Hi Bill

Attached is a link to pictures of my set up. I have Q5-8 off board until I get this thing working and figure out an enclosure. All the cables to Q5-8 are of equal lengths and 16 gauge. I also loaded a sketch of the way every thing is hooked up.

Picasa Web Albums - umesh a - alephj

I verified the voltages in R18 and 19 and they are the same (pic 2). There is some heat load in Q7 and 8 but it's much less and takes a long while to feel. Out of curiosity I measured the voltage at the Drain of Q7-8 relative to ground and it was 5 V where as Q5-6 was around 21 V.

Thanks for the help
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th October 2010, 10:20 AM   #1009
RIP
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Central Florida
Please check your PMs.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th October 2010, 04:41 PM   #1010
frags is offline frags  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
goober5 ,
Your PSU schematic looks suspicious. Can you confirm that V- at the board provides -24V or so relatively to the ground and V+ has +24V corresponding?
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
aleph 30 project traw Pass Labs 24 15th June 2012 05:47 AM
X Aleph Project Down Under macka Pass Labs 111 30th June 2008 01:55 PM
Aleph 2 project Thago Pass Labs 2 21st April 2007 07:44 AM
My aleph 2 project Jean Pass Labs 13 21st January 2004 07:14 AM
Aleph 2 (& others) as a project GRollins Pass Labs 41 11th February 2002 12:05 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:29 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2