With these exact values, you will have a nearly equal disposition. The 15r one is nearly 5 times lower in value than the others (5x15=75), so it will burn 5 times more power. Being the others 1w and this one 5w, you have them almost matched. They will result in a 10r equivalent resistor, with a 7w ratting. I think you'll be fine.Thanks Again Andrew and Regiregi22,
Correct me if im wrong, but my understanding is that when resistors are used in parralel, there wattage is added on, so for example a 68r(1 watt)//68r(1 watt)//15r(5 watt) would be equivalent to a 10r(7 watt) resistor???
However im not sure if i correct in this understanding
Alon
Am I wrong in something?
They won't, just because they have different values, so they will pass different currents.
It's easy: Power is Current times Voltage. So, having all of them the same voltage applied, what will vary is current. Then, P=VxI, will give you higher wattage consumption.
Just ohm's law.
I just wanted to confirm my understanding of what I've read with regards to potentiometer values. Back in post #138 it was said the sweet spot was a 20K pot, but anything between 15K and 25K would work without having to change the 220K resistor value.
Is a 20K pot still considered to be good? I'm looking at pairing the B1 with a ladder attenuator and if a 20K pot is still good then it opens up my choices with regards to sourcing (buy or build myself rather than just building).
Thanks
Is a 20K pot still considered to be good? I'm looking at pairing the B1 with a ladder attenuator and if a 20K pot is still good then it opens up my choices with regards to sourcing (buy or build myself rather than just building).
Thanks
yeah, 20k is still alright. Time has passed by, but the design itself remains the same
Yes, suitable. Remember to connect its screen wire (if your make will have one) to the mains ground. It helps.
So my ldr's arrived yesterday, and i managed to get my preamp up and running. I measured the dc-offsets...left channel=0.02mv and right channel=0.03mv so all very good there. i hooked it up to some cheap speakers and switched on, and was greeted by HUM!!! and it was quite loud, didnt change with the volume...thought i might have a ground loop, so i tried disconecting the ground wire on the preamp...and the hum disapeared...well almost...i can still hear a tiny amount of hum when i stand near the speaker, but not like it was before. I obviously dont want to keep the preamp chassis un-grounded, so was wondering if anyone had a suggestion as to what i could do??? As for the sound of the dcb1 with ldr volume...lets just say that im very happy...much more emotion in music, detail is amazing...and yet it portrays the music so calmly and with ease...never sounds like its struggling...but still early days, will give a more in depth review of my thoughts on the sound as i get more acquainted with it.
Alon
Alon
Search deeply for how the ground wires might form a circle...
I take all grounds and solder them to the ground jumper wire on the 'signal' part of the board. If you do this, then run a clip lead to chassis. If you still get hum, then run a CL60 Thermistor from chassis and IEC ground to star ground point. This should stop it, assuming there is a loop no place else.
I take all grounds and solder them to the ground jumper wire on the 'signal' part of the board. If you do this, then run a clip lead to chassis. If you still get hum, then run a CL60 Thermistor from chassis and IEC ground to star ground point. This should stop it, assuming there is a loop no place else.
Ok, so I am thinking at some point I will make an 'integrated' amp w/ my dc b1. But I've never had multiple transformers in a single unit before. How do would I connect the amp toroid and b1 transformer to my mains IEC? Do I need something in between or can I just wire both directly to the Line, Neutral etc on the IEC?
Hey Uriah,
Dunno about your electrical systems but with most of the 240 volt ones, you can only connect that green and yellow fellow to the chassis via a direct connector, screw or bolt - terminal blocks are "verboten" for the earth wire.
I'll tell you a story, and it's true, unfortunately!
I got one of those Bobcat Computer Dac things (absolute rubbish product!)from Levinson in NewYork just a few years back and it used the USB wire as the earth connection!! - it blew up 1st day (and the computer too!) and on return to the States for repair, they just totally refused to add any sort of a safety earth wire to the dac's metal case - unbelievable attitude - according to Levinson, even with a 240 volt mains supply, a direct chassis earth wire isn't required - ie. pull the USB plug outa the computer and maybe die - too bad!
A brand new (and bloody expensive) Yankie Doodle HiFi crap product and an Ozzie "super credible" sucker had to rebuild it for safe use!
How about that one, eh!!
Dunno about your electrical systems but with most of the 240 volt ones, you can only connect that green and yellow fellow to the chassis via a direct connector, screw or bolt - terminal blocks are "verboten" for the earth wire.
I'll tell you a story, and it's true, unfortunately!
I got one of those Bobcat Computer Dac things (absolute rubbish product!)from Levinson in NewYork just a few years back and it used the USB wire as the earth connection!! - it blew up 1st day (and the computer too!) and on return to the States for repair, they just totally refused to add any sort of a safety earth wire to the dac's metal case - unbelievable attitude - according to Levinson, even with a 240 volt mains supply, a direct chassis earth wire isn't required - ie. pull the USB plug outa the computer and maybe die - too bad!
A brand new (and bloody expensive) Yankie Doodle HiFi crap product and an Ozzie "super credible" sucker had to rebuild it for safe use!
How about that one, eh!!