Building a symmetrical PSU B1 buffer

BOM V4.3 (minor changes) :

1° - 4700uF caps rated to 35V : safer + extended lifetime.
2° - Led : both refs for Farnell/Mouser are pointing devices that shows typical Vf : 1.8v at 20mA.

Reports are welcome for update :cool:
 

Attachments

  • DC Coupled B1 Shunt PSU V4.3.pdf
    45.1 KB · Views: 460
Disabled Account
Joined 2002
there is 2 different pcbs..
i can print and do myself because of shipping etc expensive..which one is better ? and do they work?[/QUOTE]

Hi Umut, are you sure it is cheaper to make one yourself ? They are $ 4.50 and $ 6.50 for Hypnotize and Mezmerize. Add $5 for shipping to Turkey and it would be $ 11.50 for a professional made gold plated Mezmerize board ....

Guzel kalite istersen PCB kendi yapmak gereksiz.
 
A few questions about the b1:

-is it correct to say that the Salas B1 buffer, is the normal buffer but with shunt regulated power supply?

-Is there still any way of obtaining the pcb that salas designed from someone? Or perhaps does anyone have a good manufacturer for sending the pcb design?

-There are two types (mes and hyp) whats the difference?

Sorry to barge in like this in the tread, but I didnt exactly find my anwsers yet.


Rikkert
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
naah .... they both kwayzee ....... in fact - all 3 of ya ......

Greek , Turk and Serb .......

:cheers:

You did not tell me yet. When is your slava? So I can pay you a looong visit:D
 

Attachments

  • ivkova_slava.jpg
    ivkova_slava.jpg
    59.2 KB · Views: 1,015
Salas, I just looked at the DCB1S prototype build pictures that people have posted and it seems that most builders used caps larger than 100uF/25V in the regulator section. 100uF/25V caps are tiny and most proto builders' caps look physically much larger.

What is the effect of using let's say 470uF instead of 100uF in the shunt regulator, if there is an effect at all that you are aware of?
 
Thanks for the reply all.

I have read somewhere that the original b1 uses a coupling capacitor and that the Salas version doesn`t. I guess its best to stick to the original one then, as I will be using it with a firstwatt F5, which is DC coupled.

Perhaps I can just build the normal one, and add the shunt supply to it. Or build salas`with a coupling capacitor. I need to dig a bit deeper in all the treads to find out what would be the best for me.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Salas, I just looked at the DCB1S prototype build pictures that people have posted and it seems that most builders used caps larger than 100uF/25V in the regulator section. 100uF/25V caps are tiny and most proto builders' caps look physically much larger.

What is the effect of using let's say 470uF instead of 100uF in the shunt regulator, if there is an effect at all that you are aware of?

100uF is best if you want to follow my tuning. It can work with bigger. No technical problem for 99% of capacitor makes. I understand that some people maybe have good quality ones in different values that they will want to listen to for subjective effects. But I recommend they use 100uF first to know the original tuning. Use your best quality for the one across the 5 leds. The effect is they imprint some signature, especially the latter one. I prefer 100uF in this one as a subjective whole, and I have some simulation indications about the charging shape of the shunt Mosfet's gate Idrive that may exist and correlate in practice or not. Because I had been investigating that back when I did it. Its a ''tuned'' device at least for one person's views and ears. But its elastic. Can play.

Regards.

P.S. If someone uses a very low ESR bigger cap and hears any whistling noise from tweeters, soft or louder, don't worry much, you got it oscillating.:D Back to 100uF Pana FC, if your oscillation wasn't that bad. Else paypal for some new tweeters.:headshot:
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Thanks for the reply all.

I have read somewhere that the original b1 uses a coupling capacitor and that the Salas version doesn`t. I guess its best to stick to the original one then, as I will be using it with a firstwatt F5, which is DC coupled.

Perhaps I can just build the normal one, and add the shunt supply to it. Or build salas`with a coupling capacitor. I need to dig a bit deeper in all the treads to find out what would be the best for me.

Can't give you any warranties that your build ain't going to collapse at a point and drive DC to a de facto direct coupled and not output protected amp like the F5. Or that you will not never ever have a faulty source connected. On the other hand nobody says that the amp will never fail itself for instance. If you use just one capacitor in the chain, and that will be between buffer and F5, you will be safeguarded though. Using a shunt over a normal B1, I don't know if it matches this one, never tried. Uses 2 caps BTW.

Cheers.