It happens the same with my bag, it comes already matched, more or less.For the ones who haven't bought it yet these are good news, because they dont need to buy soooooo many leds.
yep, I think thats what we all got Sylvain! Too bloody consistent!
Anyway, tonight I swapped in some Bennic 4.7uF caps instead of the Carli caps. These caps sounded really good as output caps in my phonoclone - and I rolled quite a few. So, I'll let them run in for a little and see how they go. Next up after these are smaller value GE caps.
All caps so far are from Madisound.
Fran
Anyway, tonight I swapped in some Bennic 4.7uF caps instead of the Carli caps. These caps sounded really good as output caps in my phonoclone - and I rolled quite a few. So, I'll let them run in for a little and see how they go. Next up after these are smaller value GE caps.
All caps so far are from Madisound.
Fran
Attachments
Regarding the cap mods suggestion (100uF, 5X Led) to be replaced with a MKT of MKP cap, did anyone try to install a small MKP bypass cap on the 100uF cap instead, soldered from the bottom for example?
Also, do you have the part number, manufacturer, etc, of the matching connectors that fits the Mesmerize Selector Switch PCB outline, (and the IN/OUT connectors as well)?
Also, do you have the part number, manufacturer, etc, of the matching connectors that fits the Mesmerize Selector Switch PCB outline, (and the IN/OUT connectors as well)?
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And could you tell as woodturner, what values are your CCS (R1) resistors and how many voltage are dropping?
Algar-emi:
in/out - I just used some old sockets from an old pcb and just pushed the wires into them. Very easy to remove that way - important on a tweakers board!! They are here:
mouser #575-113120
As regards using a bypass cap...eh nope - its just monkey see monkey do 'round here!
No jumper on the 5 x LEDs - I think what you're seeing is a much smaller LED that might look like a jumper cos of my crappy camera phone! I used all sorts of different LEDs to try and get the drop right. I think it was 9V for the 5 leds and 5.4V for the 3 LEDs we aimed for.
regiregi22: my resistors are 68//68//10 which I think works out at 7.2R. Voltage IIRC is about 1.6v and 1.9V which gives 230 and 270mA- have a look a few posts back and I link it to much earlier in the thread (post 1030)about page 102-104 i think).
Fran
in/out - I just used some old sockets from an old pcb and just pushed the wires into them. Very easy to remove that way - important on a tweakers board!! They are here:
mouser #575-113120
As regards using a bypass cap...eh nope - its just monkey see monkey do 'round here!
No jumper on the 5 x LEDs - I think what you're seeing is a much smaller LED that might look like a jumper cos of my crappy camera phone! I used all sorts of different LEDs to try and get the drop right. I think it was 9V for the 5 leds and 5.4V for the 3 LEDs we aimed for.
regiregi22: my resistors are 68//68//10 which I think works out at 7.2R. Voltage IIRC is about 1.6v and 1.9V which gives 230 and 270mA- have a look a few posts back and I link it to much earlier in the thread (post 1030)about page 102-104 i think).
Fran
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It will not take down chemical cap's distortion. Its not an ''instead'', it will alter ESR, and will have some other effect. Results are a mixed bag in my experience. Small good caps for there are the non celebrated PPS also, IMHO.
Thanks Salas, yes, I know that film caps always have lower distortion that electrolytic ones.
I have in stock some very nice MKT Vishay (Polyester, Digikey BC1626-ND), 1.5uF, 63V. I'll installed two in parallel for 3uF total each.
They are very small, and will fit nicely. No offense, but much nicer that the big ones I saw
I'll try that.
Still no part number for the Selection and In/Out connectors?
Thanks.
I have in stock some very nice MKT Vishay (Polyester, Digikey BC1626-ND), 1.5uF, 63V. I'll installed two in parallel for 3uF total each.
They are very small, and will fit nicely. No offense, but much nicer that the big ones I saw
I'll try that.
Still no part number for the Selection and In/Out connectors?
Thanks.
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DCB1 BOM says mouser 538-22-23-2031, 538-10-11-2033 and 538-08-50-0114 for 3 pin M/F connectors + crimps
any difference between 3 options - el cap 100 uF, 4,7 uF MKP caps ?
Wait for more evaluation. We say its rather positive up to now if able to fit film caps.
Hey Algar-emi!! I know it looks crap!! its part of the fun!!
anyway in what is now becoming a regular occurence 'round here, this is tonights instalment!!
The bennic had a little bit more "presence" than the carli cap. piano note strikes more dynamic and voices more holographic.
So after another listen to confirm those impressions, I went ahead and changed the caps again. This time to smaller values, 0.33uF GE caps. These are also available for cheap from Madisound - can't remember but maybe 20 or 30c each.
GE cap at madisound
Ps.... I have a question. When I first power on the DCB1, when the cover is off, I can hear a high pitched noise from the board. Its like a high frequency "tizz" type sound. After its all warmed up its silent. No noise observed at any time through the speakers. Noise subjectively seems to come from the mosfets.
has anyone else seen this and is it anything to be worried about?
Fran
anyway in what is now becoming a regular occurence 'round here, this is tonights instalment!!
The bennic had a little bit more "presence" than the carli cap. piano note strikes more dynamic and voices more holographic.
So after another listen to confirm those impressions, I went ahead and changed the caps again. This time to smaller values, 0.33uF GE caps. These are also available for cheap from Madisound - can't remember but maybe 20 or 30c each.
GE cap at madisound
Ps.... I have a question. When I first power on the DCB1, when the cover is off, I can hear a high pitched noise from the board. Its like a high frequency "tizz" type sound. After its all warmed up its silent. No noise observed at any time through the speakers. Noise subjectively seems to come from the mosfets.
has anyone else seen this and is it anything to be worried about?
Fran
Attachments
No I haven't heard of that. Could be momentary oscillation specific to your build. Solder those 220R directly to their G pins with just 1mm leg towards G. Underneath board, the closer you can to where the G pins stem out of the plastic cases. It does not matter if the input side resistor's pin is long to the board.