Building a symmetrical psu B1 buffer
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 5th February 2012, 02:05 PM #2391 KatieandDad   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: UK The only problem that I am having with the Toner Transfer method is that I have whiskers between tracks that I have to get rid of. The photo etch process, IMHO, is far more accurate.
Salas
diyAudio Chief Moderator

Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
Quote:
 Originally Posted by KatieandDad Looking at POST 138 you are using traffic lights to acurately produce the reference voltages - Am I right in this assumption ?
You mean the pictures of the black original boards in post 138 I guess. Yes some combine colors. Try 9.4V total, the old ones had an additional drop of a 10R that boosted the 9V a bit. No sinks low Id build that one. Easy to squeeze in crowded box.
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 MezGru.jpg (169.2 KB, 350 views)

Salas
diyAudio Chief Moderator

Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
Quote:
 Originally Posted by KatieandDad I've been busy measuring my collection of LEDs - well the 3mm RED and GREEN ones. I reckon that the best match that I can get for 9V and 5V4 is as follows. 9V = RED RED RED GREEN GREEN. (1.61+1.62+1.61+2.08+2.08 = 9V0) 5V4 = RED RED GREEN. (1.63+1.63+2.11 = 5V37) I can then match both strings to within 10mV of each other and the target voltage. Is that sufficiently accurate ?
How did you measure those? This is the best method to measure near real circuit operating conditions:
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 MeasLED.gif (20.6 KB, 338 views)

 6th February 2012, 07:11 PM #2394 tommy_o   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Oct 2009 Hey there, I am just starting to source components and wanted to double check the transformer selection before proceeding. Is an Antek AN-0515 appropriate? Specs read 15V and 50VA, but I can't tell if it is 15+0+15 or not (or if I should be using a different product altogether). Link is here . Or does anyone know of a more logical transformer choice (lower the price, the better; for someone in USA).
 6th February 2012, 07:14 PM #2395 Marra   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Near Lincoln The link says two outputs so it should be 0-15;0-15. You would just need to common the two centre wires to make 15-0-15 to connect to the pcb. 50VA is fine if you want to go down the hotrod line.
tommy_o
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Oct 2009
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Marra The link says two outputs so it should be 0-15;0-15. You would just need to common the two centre wires to make 15-0-15 to connect to the pcb.
Great, thanks Marra!

diyAudio Member

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Salas How did you measure those? This is the best method to measure near real circuit operating conditions:
I used a 5V regulated supply and a series 330R resistor to simulate a 10mA current.

I thought that would be accurate enough.

I've just sourced a pair of 0-15 0-15 50VA toroids. I only need one so I've put the other on Swap-Meet.

 7th February 2012, 03:20 PM #2398 buzzforb   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Burlington, NC Any benefir to using v rated parts in dcb1?
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
Quote:
 Originally Posted by buzzforb Any benefir to using v rated parts in dcb1?
I've heard of V rated tyres for cars but never V rated components ???

Salas
diyAudio Chief Moderator

Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
Quote:
 Originally Posted by KatieandDad I used a 5V regulated supply and a series 330R resistor to simulate a 10mA current. I thought that would be accurate enough.
Not far.

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