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Old 2nd February 2012, 03:45 PM   #2321
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Can anyone point me to the BOM for the Hotrodded DCB1.

The thread has got so long that it takes forever to read through all the catty comments.

I'm making board changes anyway so any component changes will be minor.

First off I'm changing the relay drive to a TO220 TIP122, not for any other reason than I've got a pile of TIP122's.

I did ask the question. I'm going to use BYW80-150 purely because I've got a pile of them too. They do seem better in every respect than the MUR840 anyway.

Last edited by KatieandDad; 2nd February 2012 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 03:55 PM   #2322
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First point me which one schematic you refer to.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 04:06 PM   #2323
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Originally Posted by Salas View Post
First point me which one schematic you refer to.
Hypnotize-2 Dated 13/May/2010


If this isn't the best option then please advise.

I've already got a BRILLIANT B1 and I'm just experimenting to see how much better I can get.

I'm going to need the Obbligato 10uF output caps though as I'm driving the DC coupled Aleph 4.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 04:08 PM   #2324
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TIP122 is a Darlington like BC517, I hope it will work the same but its never tested there before. If the relay won't click, or will emit mechanical ''chatter'' noises, use BC517.
Here is the BOM of the Hypno2 Hot-Rod ''Blue'', that one had either 2x47R or a single 5W 10R positions, should be the one you are looking for?
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Old 2nd February 2012, 04:22 PM   #2325
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That's the same BOM that I was referring to.

The schematic calls for 4 x 47R, the BOM refers to only 2.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 04:26 PM   #2326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KatieandDad View Post
That's the same BOM that I was referring to.

The schematic calls for 4 x 47R, the BOM refers to only 2.
Are you building from scratch or a board?

I would use 10R or 3.3R if you've got the heatsinks.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 04:27 PM   #2327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KatieandDad View Post
Hypnotize-2 Dated 13/May/2010


If this isn't the best option then please advise.

I've already got a BRILLIANT B1 and I'm just experimenting to see how much better I can get.

I'm going to need the Obbligato 10uF output caps though as I'm driving the DC coupled Aleph 4.
Its the right option, only ground the rest position of the relay as we did in a next batch of PCBs. Its better for noise immunity on the signal cables when high impedance is driven. Also use 200-300mA standing current, some heat but you will appreciate the sonics. A couple of 6.8R 5W will get you there. Using the output capacitors isn't best for signal purity, but if your Aleph does not have DC sensing output relay protection, you do very well to use output capacitors. Its for the loudspeakers safety.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 04:33 PM   #2328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KatieandDad View Post
That's the same BOM that I was referring to.

The schematic calls for 4 x 47R, the BOM refers to only 2.
That's a BOM's mistake apparently. But 2X47 per channel are just to have light current option for circumstances that heat is a no-no. Hot-Rod DCB1 is meant hot, a couple of 10R 5W or lower value.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 05:01 PM   #2329
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I opted to have NO protection on the Aleph 4, it relies purely on the solid design. And I have shorted the ouitputs without any damage to the amp - Well done Nelson on the design.

I am therefore stuck with having to have the output caps but I do have the excellent Obligatto 10uF PIOs from my B1.

I've got some nice 2E heatsinks that will ditch the Power FET heat but I'll need to mount the IRFP's remotely.

As far as I can recall this doesn't have a detrimental effect as long as the gate resistors are close to the FETs.

I'll work with 300mA if that is best ??

Will the 2SK170s need heatsinks at this current ?
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Old 2nd February 2012, 05:04 PM   #2330
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Are you building from scratch or a board?

I would use 10R or 3.3R if you've got the heatsinks.
I'm making my own boards.
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