I connected the shields at one end, they are strapped to ground. R & L are carried by two of the three individual, jacketed wires. I have experienced no cross talk with this cable (at least not audible). If you follow the link posted above, it will show that this cable is specified for AV and other high bandwidth applications.
you have a problem.
You have not told us how the signal circuit maintains the flow and return of the signal.
It appears from your description that the right signal flows along the red wire. The left signal flows along the white wire. The third core is unused. The shield is connected (grounded) at one end only.
Where is the return route for the signal circuit?
It must be a circuit. The signal cannot flow unless you provide a return route.
I think you have told us that you hear music. If that is the case then there is a return route. Do you know where that route goes?
I suspect you never thought about it.
And for sure better sound. My stove loves to buzzNo. But I sure could use a better stove than the one we have now. Hmm...
Thank you all, for your suggestions with my hum problem...I am going away on holiday to Cornwall tomorrow and so wont be able to try the suggestions out for a while...but i didnt want people thinking i wasn't grateful...today i moved the large toroid to the right and vertically mounted it, also vertically mounted the small toroid, and i also tuck in the ac primary's into the metal grooves in the chassis all using Blu Tac
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The Hum, on the right speaker has almost disapeared, very very quite now...move the ear 6 inches from the speaker and the hum cant be heard. The hum on the left speaker has also got quieter, but not as quite as the right speaker...Buzz remains the same on both speakers.
Well im off on holiday
Alon
Hi Alon,
to verify your hum problem, i connected my pcb between my Tube-I-zator and my pre amp.
The Vin comes from the 15V line of my TDA1541A DAC-Shunt.
Absolute silence... So it is a problem in your setup.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi Oliver,
Do you use just the Optivol? or do you use Optivol with the Dcb1? On a side note...i found using the salas shunt at 5v(deleting Optivol power supply section) to sound best...i also tried salas shunt at 8v into optivol power supply, but this was not as good.
Alon
Im going to be using my own power supply (+-12v 1amp 3mv ripple shunt) that i built for my other parts of the amp.
Is there anything i need to change since i will be air wiring it?
Also on the output fets. If i dont care about dc off set (all my amps have 1 cap at either the driver or power stage), what are the benefits of having them current matched?
Is there anything i need to change since i will be air wiring it?
Also on the output fets. If i dont care about dc off set (all my amps have 1 cap at either the driver or power stage), what are the benefits of having them current matched?
Keep the inside ones of the 4 audio fets (the current sources) smaller IDSS than the outer ones. Don't know if it can have any other impact, never used widely apart fets there, it will surely give more DC offset. Nothing to change in the audio part if changing the reg types.
At the moment i couldn´t use the DCB1 because i am waiting to the Texas Components 220R & 220K.
I will also give the optivol a separate +5V Salas shunt and delete the onboard 7805 reg.
The 7th hole is only an additional fixing point. No conection to GND.
the B1 and the DCB1 are both unbalanced input to unbalanced output.
You have to convert the balanced plug to provide an unbalanced signal to feed into the unbalanced buffer.
The B1 & DCB1 are both single ended source follower (unity gain amplifier) that are loaded with a CCS (the lower jFET). They both have +IN and Signal Return. They don't have -IN.
If you want to preserve the noise cancellation of your balanced cable then look at the many other PASS designs that accept balanced input.
