Babo Tries New Voltage Regulator for F5

[Babowana]

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Spring has come . . .
Leaves are too dry . . .
Light mountain fires . . .


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I will try a new voltage regulator for my F5 amp. Why . . . ?
[list=1][*]Wanna cut off few Vdc inbetween the 25Vac secondary and the 24Vdc rail I want.[*]Wanna have a very stiff voltage source.[*]Wanna have a current limiter--max. load current of 10A.[*]Wanna have a short circuit current of 2A.[*]Wanna remove the current limiter included in F5 amp circuit.[*]Wanna try a thing the other diyers havn't tried yet.[*]Will have a bleeder.[*]Will have a soft starter.[*]Most importantly wanna have another diy fun![/List=1]

I dun know whether I'm walking through the right direction towards a safe escape. I myself can't see a big picture of the forest, some parts of which are on fire.

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[Babowana]

Have made very preliminary drawing on PC board, to check size and space of the the board required for components arrangement. It seems that the board could be reduced somewhat smaller . . . but . . . but . . . the chassis has plenty inner space . . . keeponrunning!


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[audiorob]

Originally posted by Babowana


I will try a new voltage regulator for my F5 amp. Why . . . ?
[list=1][*]Wanna cut off few Vdc inbetween the 25Vac secondary and the 24Vdc rail I want.[*]Wanna have a very stiff voltage source.[*]Wanna have a current limiter--max. load current of 10A.[*]Wanna have a short circuit current of 2A.[*]Wanna remove the current limiter included in F5 amp circuit.[*]Wanna try a thing the other diyers havn't tried yet.[*]Will have a bleeder.[*]Will have a soft starter.[*]Most importantly wanna have another diy fun![/List=1]

I dun know whether I'm walking through the right direction towards a safe escape. I myself can't see a big picture of the forest, some parts of which are on fire.

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Rock on brother Babo!

I believe the 317/337 with pass transistor based regulator that I built really made
a positive difference in the sound character of the amp. I believe it gave more
definition throughout the sound spectrum. I believe this made for a more vivid
sound stage.

Maybe these things actually derive from being able to set the voltage on the
rails more accurately (to balance the pos and neg sides). Maybe they are due
to extra power supply filtering that I did at the same time. Maybe it is due to
better handling of power problems in my city. I don't know...

I will be interested in reading how your project progresses, and if you believe the
end product makes any audible difference. Good luck!

Robert

[Babowana]

Originally posted by audiorob


...Good luck!

Thanks, Robert. I'm encouraged . . . moving one step forward.


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[fab]

Hi Babo

The way you used raw PCB to incorporate layout of traces using a "Dremel" type of drill gave me some interest to try it for some projects since I do not have etching pcb kit and all the chemical stuff required...

Regulating the F5 power supply should surely provide some interesting improvements...

keep us posted on the "before and after" sound comparison too.

[Babowana]

Originally posted by fab

keep us posted on the "before and after" sound comparison too.

Hi,

Will try, but the progress is slow for certain reason . . . Be patient, pls . . .


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[Babowana]

The populated board is ready to go into the chassis . . .


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[fab]

Originally posted by Babowana
The populated board is ready to go into the chassis . . .
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Hi,

Nice job

For the power mosfets will they be attached to the main amp heatsinks or use separate dedicated smaller heatsinks? If on the main heatsink, how will you attach the one in the middle of the pcb ?

Additionally, how do you control the depth of the drill in the pcb to remove the copper to do the layout? unless I have totally misunderstood your technique...

Thanks

[Babowana]

Originally posted by fab


If on the main heatsink, how will you attach the one in the middle of the pcb ?

Additionally, how do you control the depth of the drill in the pcb to remove the copper to do the layout?

Yeah . . . I attach the mosfets on the main heatsinks and use lead wires to the PCB. The lead wires have been ok for me. If I consider that the wire length is too long, I solder the gate resistor (220R) directly to the gate pin, and then I send the lead wire to the PCB.

I control the depth of the drill, using my three-finger force (like pen holding). That's all.


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[Babowana]

New F5 excluding the current limiter is underconstruction too,
along with the new regulated power supply. Now, F5 does almost look like Babo Zen.

The board size is 200mm x 60mm.

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