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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: california
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Hi there
I am trying to build an Aleph 3 amp and have all my parts together (finally). when I mount my transistor (Kristijan's PCBs) to the heatsink, should my mounting screw and heatsink be isolated from each other? I know that I have to use some form of insulator(I am using mica insulators with thermal grease) between the transistor and the heatsink. However, once I use a screw to mount the transistor to the heatsink, the screw and the heatsink will have an electrical short. Is this ok? what about isolation between an aluminium chassis and the heatsinks? Does there need to be electrical isolation between these two? Finally, do I need insulating bushing between the screw and the transistor? Can the screw end up being in physical contact with the metal part of the transistor through the screw mount hole? I am a novice and I hope these questions make sense |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Central FL
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What kind of transistor are you using. Some are plastic and some are metal. If you are using, say, an IRFP240/9240 combination then the bolt will not touch any of the metal of the transistor and that will be fine. If you have any doubt, after you bolt the transistor down, and before you solder it to the card use an ohmeter to check from the screw to each leg of the transistor. You should not get a reading if everything is okay. If you get a reading then you must buy an insulator.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Canada
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Central FL
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Quote:
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: california
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Hi there
Thanks everyone for replying so promptly. The devices i am using are the IRFP244. I want to say that this is a TO-247 package but I am not very sure. They do however look like this - http://www.irf-japan.com/package/TO247AC.pdf Can I do the continuity check on the PCB itself (check for electrical continuity between each of the pin legs and the screw hole ?) Do I need to keep any leg grounded? Will the continuity checks in anyway ruin the boards? thanks in advance VSR |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
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Which is better thermally; the mica and heat conductive grease or the silcone pads?
If using the mica you spread the grease on both sides for coupling, is this an issue in cooling the hot little chips. George |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Central FL
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Quote:
You need not worry about it. On the top where the screw goes through is black plastic and underneath you can see a ring of black plastic around the hole and then metal. Mount this on your choice of insulative pad (mica w/thermal compound) and let her rip. You do not have to do a continuity check if you don.t want and once you have these mounted on insulators your heatsink will not cause a short when you attach it to the rest of the chassis. The problem with checking a device after it is on a board is, can the meter read what I want it to read...ONLY. That is, will it read through something else in the circuit and make me think I have a problem when I don't, and how long will it take me to figure out I am chasing my tail 1 megaohm to ground is different than 1 ohm to ground. You will be fine but if you want to double check take a device not soldered to the card, say a spare, and bolt it up and look. Just a little peace of mind, but you will see all will be well. You may blow it up from something else but not this |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Quebec City
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Does heatpad (sold by digikey BER178-ND) can replace the usual mica for TO-247? It seems like a mix between insulation and grease.
__________________
Imagination is more important than knowledge. knowledge is limited, imagination encircles the world. Albert Einstein FrankDIY's Audio Corner |
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#9 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Philadelphia
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Quote:
Quote:
Actually, I think that the Mica is slightly better thermally, if I remember correctly. Try Bergquist's site, I think that the data is there. Or alternately, Digikey. They have data on everything that they sell. I think that any difference is only a problem if your heatsink is too small to begin with. I don't quite understand the question "is this an issue...?" Just put it on both sides. It's the right way. That sauce serves to fill any microscopic gaps between the surfaces of the heatsink, mica pad, and transistor. That is its one and only purpose. Now that I look again, maybe it's not a question. It's worded like one, but it has no question mark (but I notice that they are being done-away-with here For Francois, the answer is Yes. Particularly in your case with your extra-mega-huge heatsinks. I think that mica insulators in that size are somewhat difficult to get. You can get them, but most don't carry them. Here are two sources you can read to become a real expert: http://www.chomerics.com/products/do...hermalPerf.pdf http://www.irf.com/technical-info/appnotes/an-1012.pdf
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Vince Harris |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brantford, ON
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quote: I don't quite understand the question "is this an issue...?" Just put it on both sides. It's the right way. That sauce serves to fill any microscopic gaps between the surfaces of the heatsink, mica pad, and transistor. That is its one and only purpose.
what he has said is is in his own way is absolutely correct...sil-pad absorbs the compression of the device and fills up any fluctuations in mating surface ...or should I say adhesive properties...mica is a translucent wafer so its "RIGHT THERE"...the compound we use just helps the heat transfer |
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