F3 Builders Thread

Melon Head · 23rd January 2009, 10:29 AM

Hi everyone.
Well with everyone purchasing their F3 boards through Peter, I felt it made a lot of sense to start up a builders thread, to share the journey together.
To start off, I thought part selection would be a good topic to discuss.

AMP PARTS
For resistors I am thinking of any of the following:
Caddock Mk132,
Vishay Bulk Foils,
Vishay Dale RN55D,
Mills
Its probably important to discuss which resistors are the most critical.
Any other suggestions?

Electrolytic Caps
Well besides Panasonics I am not to sure what would be best at a reasonable price.
I am most concerned about what to use for C1 and C10

Film Caps
Also not to sure about what to use here maybe Wima MKP10 might be a good choice.

POWER SUUPLY PARTS
Electrolytic Caps
Will 30000uF caps be sufficient for this amp?
I can get hold of Epcos SIkorels, but these might be overkill for a Class A amp.

Rectifier Diodes
I have MUR860 diodes, will these be a good choice.

Resistors
Mills or something cheaper possibly.

Any other suggestions would be welcome?

Some pictures would be a nice contribution if anyone has already started assembling theirs.

Nelson Pass · 23rd January 2009, 07:05 PM

All those parts sound pretty good to me. Probably the most
contentious part is the big electrolytic at the output. If you could
parallel up a pile of Elna silks or polypropylenes to form the output
capacitance I think that would be the biggest improvement you
could make parts-wise.

Yes, I can see it now.... 100 parallel Solen canisters per channel...

Melon Head · 23rd January 2009, 08:12 PM

Thanks Nelson
I forgot about Elna Silmic caps. I just had a look at these and the highest vaue they have at the required voltage is 1000uF, so that means 15 of these suckers.
Maybe Panasonic FC would be a more sensible choice either 5600uF 25V, or 3900uF 35V.

Melon Head · 23rd January 2009, 11:00 PM

Having said that, I think most people will want to stick fairly closely to what will fit on the PCB.
So if anyone has other suggestions about what would be good to use here, then that would be most welcomed.
I think Peter likes to use Jenson Capacitors, but I don't think he was completely happy with the result.

The other thing worth discusing might be the choice of values.
The original uses 15000uF, 220uF, 1uF in parrallel.
Maybe their is a better combination of values that will also fit on the board.

Peter Daniel · 23rd January 2009, 11:10 PM

If I can suggest something for multidriver speakers, is to split the output caps between drivers and use whatever is needed only.

For instance, in my particular setup, I'm using 6.8uF Siemes MKV in tweeter network (1st order filter) and BG N 330/100 with the midrange driver (again first order filter only). No need for other big caps. If you have a woofer, then you can put 10,000uF cap there too, but it could be separated from mid/high output.

Melon Head · 23rd January 2009, 11:38 PM

Hi Peter
Thanks for that, I noticed you mentioned it in your ZV9 build.
If I understand correctly you are suggesting placing these caps inside the speakers splitting them across the different drivers.

Just to clear things up the purpose of these are dc blocking capacitors is that right?
If so won't the tweeter be more vulnerable to damage by doing it this way?
I really don't know much about this so if you could explain that would be appreciated.

massimo · 23rd January 2009, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by thanh1973
Hi everyone.
Resistors
Mills or something cheaper possibly.

Mills non-inductive pw resistors are very good, but expensive.
A good choice colud be Fukishima MCP78 planar resistor. These 5 W resistors are compact, "low distorsion", non-inductive and cost a fraction.
Often used by leading far eastern manufacturers such as Accuphase.

Melon Head · 24th January 2009, 12:11 AM

Thanks for that. I will have a look at these resistors.

Melon Head · 24th January 2009, 12:34 AM

Can anyone supply a spice model for LU1014D?

Nelson Pass · 24th January 2009, 05:11 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by thanh1973
I forgot about Elna Silmic caps. I just had a look at these and the highest vaue they have at the required voltage is 1000uF, so that means 15 of these suckers. Maybe Panasonic FC would be a more sensible choice either 5600uF 25V, or 3900uF 35V.

Trust me - people obviously are missing a big bet on the Elnas.

23rd January 2009, 10:29 AM	#1
Melon Head Formerly Thanh1973 Join Date: Nov 2006	F3 Builders Thread Hi everyone. Well with everyone purchasing their F3 boards through Peter, I felt it made a lot of sense to start up a builders thread, to share the journey together. To start off, I thought part selection would be a good topic to discuss. AMP PARTS For resistors I am thinking of any of the following: Caddock Mk132, Vishay Bulk Foils, Vishay Dale RN55D, Mills Its probably important to discuss which resistors are the most critical. Any other suggestions? Electrolytic Caps Well besides Panasonics I am not to sure what would be best at a reasonable price. I am most concerned about what to use for C1 and C10 Film Caps Also not to sure about what to use here maybe Wima MKP10 might be a good choice. POWER SUUPLY PARTS Electrolytic Caps Will 30000uF caps be sufficient for this amp? I can get hold of Epcos SIkorels, but these might be overkill for a Class A amp. Rectifier Diodes I have MUR860 diodes, will these be a good choice. Resistors Mills or something cheaper possibly. Any other suggestions would be welcome? Some pictures would be a nice contribution if anyone has already started assembling theirs.

23rd January 2009, 11:10 PM	#5
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	If I can suggest something for multidriver speakers, is to split the output caps between drivers and use whatever is needed only. For instance, in my particular setup, I'm using 6.8uF Siemes MKV in tweeter network (1st order filter) and BG N 330/100 with the midrange driver (again first order filter only). No need for other big caps. If you have a woofer, then you can put 10,000uF cap there too, but it could be separated from mid/high output. __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

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23rd January 2009, 07:05 PM	#2
Nelson Pass The one and only Join Date: Mar 2001	All those parts sound pretty good to me. Probably the most contentious part is the big electrolytic at the output. If you could parallel up a pile of Elna silks or polypropylenes to form the output capacitance I think that would be the biggest improvement you could make parts-wise. Yes, I can see it now.... 100 parallel Solen canisters per channel...

23rd January 2009, 08:12 PM	#3
Melon Head Formerly Thanh1973 Join Date: Nov 2006	Thanks Nelson I forgot about Elna Silmic caps. I just had a look at these and the highest vaue they have at the required voltage is 1000uF, so that means 15 of these suckers. Maybe Panasonic FC would be a more sensible choice either 5600uF 25V, or 3900uF 35V.

23rd January 2009, 11:00 PM	#4
Melon Head Formerly Thanh1973 Join Date: Nov 2006	Having said that, I think most people will want to stick fairly closely to what will fit on the PCB. So if anyone has other suggestions about what would be good to use here, then that would be most welcomed. I think Peter likes to use Jenson Capacitors, but I don't think he was completely happy with the result. The other thing worth discusing might be the choice of values. The original uses 15000uF, 220uF, 1uF in parrallel. Maybe their is a better combination of values that will also fit on the board.

23rd January 2009, 11:38 PM	#6
Melon Head Formerly Thanh1973 Join Date: Nov 2006	Hi Peter Thanks for that, I noticed you mentioned it in your ZV9 build. If I understand correctly you are suggesting placing these caps inside the speakers splitting them across the different drivers. Just to clear things up the purpose of these are dc blocking capacitors is that right? If so won't the tweeter be more vulnerable to damage by doing it this way? I really don't know much about this so if you could explain that would be appreciated.

24th January 2009, 12:11 AM	#8
Melon Head Formerly Thanh1973 Join Date: Nov 2006	Thanks for that. I will have a look at these resistors.

24th January 2009, 12:34 AM	#9
Melon Head Formerly Thanh1973 Join Date: Nov 2006	Can anyone supply a spice model for LU1014D?

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