Hi everyone.
I,m redoing the outputstage on my DAC (opamp based) And of course Mr Pass,s D1 I/V is one the i want.. 🙂
Soo,, to the drawing board... This is the result. Schematic found somewhere on the Net and layout ideas stolen a little bit here and there.... 😎
Anyhow, I need your eyes to see if there are any mistakes.
I,m going to have some boards made and don,t want to buy PCB,s that do not work ... 🙂
Yez, i have got an ok from Master (if anyone wondered.) 🙂
Layout
Schematic
Thanx !
/JZ
I,m redoing the outputstage on my DAC (opamp based) And of course Mr Pass,s D1 I/V is one the i want.. 🙂
Soo,, to the drawing board... This is the result. Schematic found somewhere on the Net and layout ideas stolen a little bit here and there.... 😎

Anyhow, I need your eyes to see if there are any mistakes.
I,m going to have some boards made and don,t want to buy PCB,s that do not work ... 🙂
Yez, i have got an ok from Master (if anyone wondered.) 🙂
Layout
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Schematic
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanx !
/JZ
I have no ideas about the I/V. However, if you build a real D1 I/V clone I would be very interested in buying some boards from you. I am looking for the original Pass D1 I/V. I hope this is what you are trying to achieve. I will keep posted.
mmm i can see the schematic does,nt work.
here it is..
Thanx khundude
/JZ
here it is..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanx khundude
/JZ
Hi Zei
Except for R21B should read 100k, your schematic is fine. I take it that the trimpots are 20k.
I will go over your board later. What is the size of your board?
If you plan to use screw terminals for the outputs it would be a good idea to make 2 holes for standoff's in the output end for support when tightening the terminals. Just place them as close to the sides as possible. Nice work BTW.
🙂
Except for R21B should read 100k, your schematic is fine. I take it that the trimpots are 20k.
I will go over your board later. What is the size of your board?
If you plan to use screw terminals for the outputs it would be a good idea to make 2 holes for standoff's in the output end for support when tightening the terminals. Just place them as close to the sides as possible. Nice work BTW.
🙂
Thanx Steenoe!
Good eye spotting that resistor 🙂
Board size is about 50X60mm. My ide was to use output Caps offboard to due to size. Me and my friends might use different sorts.
I added the Screwterminals just to have that option when testing everything 😉 Mkaes everything sooo much easier...
I,m alos going to redraw some wirds to tidy it up a bit.
Thanx Again!
Loking forward the the verdict on layout🙂
Regards
/JZ
Good eye spotting that resistor 🙂
Board size is about 50X60mm. My ide was to use output Caps offboard to due to size. Me and my friends might use different sorts.
I added the Screwterminals just to have that option when testing everything 😉 Mkaes everything sooo much easier...
I,m alos going to redraw some wirds to tidy it up a bit.
Thanx Again!
Loking forward the the verdict on layout🙂
Regards
/JZ
You are welcome.
When cleaning up; take a look at the tracks between R18B-R19B and C4+-Q1 drain.
From the pic, it looks like a little zig-zag'ing is going on there.
Hardwiring the outputcaps offboard is fine to keep a nice compact board size.
🙂
When cleaning up; take a look at the tracks between R18B-R19B and C4+-Q1 drain.
From the pic, it looks like a little zig-zag'ing is going on there.
Hardwiring the outputcaps offboard is fine to keep a nice compact board size.
🙂
I was thinking of usin a "standard" LM3x7 PSU to start with and then maybe use something like ZenMod,s Shiny...
Would i gain anything from changing to the Shiny? besides the obviuos coolness.. 😎
Thanx
/JZ
Would i gain anything from changing to the Shiny? besides the obviuos coolness.. 😎
Thanx
/JZ
Thanx Steenoe for that sharp eye.. Here is a new image of that layout.
More comments before i send the files to PCB factory...?
Thanx
/JZ
More comments before i send the files to PCB factory...?
Thanx
/JZ
Hi Zei.
Just finished going through all the connections on the board and it seems to be perfectly fine. JP2 is underneath C9 and that is probably not the best place to have a jumper. If you wanted to, it looks like C9 (and C4 for board symmetry) could be moved closer to the middle and in the proces expose JP2's solderpad.
It would be nice if at least one more could do a little checking. 3 sets of eyes see more than 2.
I was going to ask you what you had in mind for the PSU. As far as I recall, the Shiny is a shuntreg? Could you post the schematic or link to it? A shuntreg is possibly the best choice, but it takes some calculating to get it right. Approx. 20mA excess current must run through the shunt element and the ccs must provide that on top of what the circuit draws, itself.
🙂
Just finished going through all the connections on the board and it seems to be perfectly fine. JP2 is underneath C9 and that is probably not the best place to have a jumper. If you wanted to, it looks like C9 (and C4 for board symmetry) could be moved closer to the middle and in the proces expose JP2's solderpad.
It would be nice if at least one more could do a little checking. 3 sets of eyes see more than 2.
I was going to ask you what you had in mind for the PSU. As far as I recall, the Shiny is a shuntreg? Could you post the schematic or link to it? A shuntreg is possibly the best choice, but it takes some calculating to get it right. Approx. 20mA excess current must run through the shunt element and the ccs must provide that on top of what the circuit draws, itself.
🙂
Thanx again steenoe.
I,ll look inte our suggestions right away and the post a new image.
Regarding the PSU, I have no clue on calculatin it whatsoever. .so i was kinda hoping for some help in that area..
Here is where i found it Shiny Link 🙂
/JZ
I,ll look inte our suggestions right away and the post a new image.
Regarding the PSU, I have no clue on calculatin it whatsoever. .so i was kinda hoping for some help in that area..
Here is where i found it Shiny Link 🙂
/JZ
Made a few changes after some suggestions and also cleaned it up a bit 🙂 .
I think i,m happy with this layout, Size is still approx 55X45mm.
I would very much like some more input on the layout just to be certain that there are no erros.
I,ll order a few boards extra just to get a better price from the PCB factory, So if anyone wants a piece of this Speak up or forever be silent 😎
PCB will be black mask, white silk and goldplating. same as this PCB.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=122639&highlight= (look at bottom of thread)
I think i,m happy with this layout, Size is still approx 55X45mm.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I would very much like some more input on the layout just to be certain that there are no erros.
I,ll order a few boards extra just to get a better price from the PCB factory, So if anyone wants a piece of this Speak up or forever be silent 😎
PCB will be black mask, white silk and goldplating. same as this PCB.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=122639&highlight= (look at bottom of thread)
I made a few last minute changes.... 😎
Just to clarify, It is a singelsided layout.
I have only marked the grounding red to make it easier to see.
/JZ
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Just to clarify, It is a singelsided layout.
I have only marked the grounding red to make it easier to see.
/JZ
Hi Spraiski
No problem.
Right now with the amount of PCB that is preliminary "booked" price is going to be around 10Euro including shipping.
Email me for details.
🙂
/JZ
No problem.
Right now with the amount of PCB that is preliminary "booked" price is going to be around 10Euro including shipping.
Email me for details.
🙂
/JZ
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