2 B1's, 2 Sounds
I recently finished my 2nd B1.
Both sound great but they are different.
I made 3 main changes.
Which of these changes would make the biggest differences in the sonics?
1. Different caps in the signal path, same type and value, different brands.
2. Wall wart power supply (measures solid) vs built in regulated.
3. Goldpoint vs Seiden/Takman metal foil stepped attenuator.
I recently finished my 2nd B1.
Both sound great but they are different.
I made 3 main changes.
Which of these changes would make the biggest differences in the sonics?
1. Different caps in the signal path, same type and value, different brands.
2. Wall wart power supply (measures solid) vs built in regulated.
3. Goldpoint vs Seiden/Takman metal foil stepped attenuator.
Well you are the one that made 2 different B1's so it would be most easy if you compare and tell us what causes the differences.
Some ideas:
1.Caps sound different so you can go on till you are very old with hearing differences. The question is if cap A is better than cap B. My hint is that no caps at all would give the best results like in the DCB1/Mezmerize. Better still, I tried and can tell it sounds better than a B1 with very expensive caps.
2. Built in regulated PSU should be better technically. Wall warts in HiFi is like girls watching football.
3. Boutique parts, one of the two will be preferred but both are better than standard potentiometers. Matter of taste.
wonder if someone can help here
i want to have a switch to switch between 5 sources so have found this rotary switch.
GRAYHILL, 71BD36-01-2-AJN ., SWITCH, ROTARY, DP5T, 300mA, 115V | eBay
it says
No. of Poles:2
No. of Switch Positions:5
So does that mean that 2 poles can be left and right audio signal ?
or do i need 4 poles for
l-in
r-in
l-out
r-out
lol so could someone recommend me something better or cheaper that does the trick ?
i want to have a switch to switch between 5 sources so have found this rotary switch.
GRAYHILL, 71BD36-01-2-AJN ., SWITCH, ROTARY, DP5T, 300mA, 115V | eBay
it says
No. of Poles:2
No. of Switch Positions:5
So does that mean that 2 poles can be left and right audio signal ?
or do i need 4 poles for
l-in
r-in
l-out
r-out
lol so could someone recommend me something better or cheaper that does the trick ?
You are correct
I'm glad to help.
I think you are right about that one, but I'm not 100% sure. 2 pole = right and left channel. The inputs appear to be five on that one and you have to play around with finding continuity on a Volt-Ohm meter (multimeter) so you can identify how the lugs relate to each other. Each input has a right and a left so you need to determine how the switch works.
I've got a cheapie V.O.M. but I like the audible "beep" I get on it when I get continuity.
May I suggest a much less expensive option from Radio Shack? They are less than $4 U.S. Perfectly fine. Part number appears to now be #275-034 (They appear to be the same as the ones I've used in the past, which were #275-1386). If you punch in "rotary switch" in the R.S. search engine, you'll see it.
If you are confused about this, I can send you a photo or sketch of how my selectors are wired up.
It is a bit confusing at first. That's why I always use the same switch. I made a sketch and keep it handy. When I do a new project I don't have to re-think how it works/wires up.
Best of luck,
Mark
I'm glad to help.
I think you are right about that one, but I'm not 100% sure. 2 pole = right and left channel. The inputs appear to be five on that one and you have to play around with finding continuity on a Volt-Ohm meter (multimeter) so you can identify how the lugs relate to each other. Each input has a right and a left so you need to determine how the switch works.
I've got a cheapie V.O.M. but I like the audible "beep" I get on it when I get continuity.
May I suggest a much less expensive option from Radio Shack? They are less than $4 U.S. Perfectly fine. Part number appears to now be #275-034 (They appear to be the same as the ones I've used in the past, which were #275-1386). If you punch in "rotary switch" in the R.S. search engine, you'll see it.
If you are confused about this, I can send you a photo or sketch of how my selectors are wired up.
It is a bit confusing at first. That's why I always use the same switch. I made a sketch and keep it handy. When I do a new project I don't have to re-think how it works/wires up.
Best of luck,
Mark
This one is very similar to what I have used in the past, it works very well.
Cheers much appreciated! shall make my decision on which to go with today.
the other thing is line-out i would like to add one, would there be a proper way to do that with the B1 ?
my friend wants to feed a line out to a different amp so that he can chose which amp or even both the music from say CD player is played on.
Thanks Mark for the radioshack recommendation ,looks good yes i think ill be able to suss out how to wire the Potentiometer with a bit of time.
the other thing is line-out i would like to add one, would there be a proper way to do that with the B1 ?
my friend wants to feed a line out to a different amp so that he can chose which amp or even both the music from say CD player is played on.
Thanks Mark for the radioshack recommendation ,looks good yes i think ill be able to suss out how to wire the Potentiometer with a bit of time.
Last edited:
Having real trouble finding Dual Gang 25k Potentiometer at 0.25"
This is the closest Iv'e found and its 47k
not even ebay has them in this size
27ESB473MMF50NF - TE CONNECTIVITY / CITEC - POTENTIOMETER, D/GANG LOG 47K | Farnell United Kingdom
Is there a way i can modify to work with a lower or higher than 25k pot ? i think if i was clever i could calculate series/parallel resistor to add lol
The selector switch im happy with and think this cost is worth it as i think its well built!
http://uk.farnell.com/grayhill/71bd36-01-2-ajn/switch-rotary-dp5t-300ma-115v/dp/1625819
This is the closest Iv'e found and its 47k
not even ebay has them in this size27ESB473MMF50NF - TE CONNECTIVITY / CITEC - POTENTIOMETER, D/GANG LOG 47K | Farnell United Kingdom
Is there a way i can modify to work with a lower or higher than 25k pot ? i think if i was clever i could calculate series/parallel resistor to add lol
The selector switch im happy with and think this cost is worth it as i think its well built!
http://uk.farnell.com/grayhill/71bd36-01-2-ajn/switch-rotary-dp5t-300ma-115v/dp/1625819
Last edited: