Hi Andrew ,
this is available to me from a fellow forum member .... http://www.rapidonline.com/netalogue/specs/66-0226.pdf
Now an in put selector ... looking for three inputs ... Pearl 2 , DAC and a spare
Just starting to collect parts .
Rich
this is available to me from a fellow forum member .... http://www.rapidonline.com/netalogue/specs/66-0226.pdf
Now an in put selector ... looking for three inputs ... Pearl 2 , DAC and a spare
Just starting to collect parts .
Rich
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I wasted a ton of cash on my amp build ... 20 quid seems sensible . I did find out that a lot of my problems were caused by working with far higher temp when soldering .
New digital station .. Start with this little project this time
I want good solid quality parts without getting boutique silly . I can always change parts later .
I would like to use a split rail supply ,but everything gets confusing in the thread . I'm on page 56 and the design just keeps changing . I wish there was a beginners area here on the forum . I'm sure folks get frustrated with me cluttering up their thought process with very basic questions .
Rich
New digital station .. Start with this little project this time
I want good solid quality parts without getting boutique silly . I can always change parts later .
I would like to use a split rail supply ,but everything gets confusing in the thread . I'm on page 56 and the design just keeps changing . I wish there was a beginners area here on the forum . I'm sure folks get frustrated with me cluttering up their thought process with very basic questions .
Rich
Okay, do I understand it right that the exact value of the C's is not the most important, as long as they are carefully matched?
this Lorlin is real cheap http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/007a/0900766b8007a1e8.pdf
Lucas Stabilty is probably a lot more solid, with longer life
cost more, but still cheaper than 'audiophile' parts
I doubt you can actually hear any difference
or maybe the cheap Lorlin actually 'sounds' better
as long a they function properly
but then, a nice feel gives confidence of good sound too
remember you need 'brake before make' (BBM) for a signal switch
and for building resistor attenuator it should be 'make before brake' (MBB)
I think it is
Yes, if 10uF lets all the audio through then whether it is 9.3uF or 10.9uF does not really matter.
But as far as the balanced impedance connection is concerned, the two halves (hot & cold) of the connection must have the same impedance, i.e. same resistance and same capacitance to a very tight tolerance. Aim for better than 0.1%
The two channels of a stereo connection do not need to match each other, 1% or 2% is probably inaudible.
Make before break is important to an attenuator switch. It prevents a loud click and with some systems could result in maximum signal going to the receiver for very loud noise.
I am not sure that break before make is correct for selector switching/muting.
The DCB1 has a break before make relay as the delay switch. While it is open the receiver sees an open circuit (near infinite impedance) on it's input and uses that as an aerial to pick up whatever it can.
Selector relays and selector switches that go open will do the same to any receiver.
Some receivers will oscillate if the input is momentarily left open.
hmm, and what happens when using using MBB switch ?
will there be two sources connected in paralel, momentarily ?
any audible effects ?
if using 4pole switch breaking both hot signal and ground, I guess it would be best to at least have MBB on the ground connection ?
Yes, two source resistances will momentarily be connected to the receiver input. = no open circuit input,
Yes, you will hear two sources playing together.
