Diomedian said:
AFAIK Nelson Pass stated that he used only one supply to make it easier/simpler for everybody and he has nothing against caps. There is not much argueing necessary to hear the difference between "asymmetrical + caps" version and the "symmetrical without caps" versions. BTW the latter can't be called a minor variation anymore since shunt supplies were also incorporated in the latest version. It is more complex in some aspects and it is not for those that do now know if their gear is DC coupled or not. In that case a standard B1 is a better choice...
It is pretty bold to say but (regarding sound quality) the symmetrical version wins from the original version hands down. As a bonus it is cheaper to build too as caps can be quite expensive if one wants good ones.
Diomedian said:
Contradictionary.
Hi Jean-Paul!
As far as I'm concerned, I'm only referring to the version Zen-Mod has shown (attached below). I don't want to get rid of caps (some caps actually do sound really good ;-), and I don't think the symmetrical ps sounds better than the single one. But, If I want to build this buffer from diskrete parts, hand-wired, on a spare pcb, I find the Zen-Mod version to be much easier indeed.
In this version one can omit: C100/C200, R2/R3 (the 10k's), C3, D1 and R4/D2 (even though one can omit these two in the single supply version, too).
I don't want to use a wall wart, because I really don't like them (again, not because of bad sound, but because I want to have everything in one enclosure). So, if I'm going to buy a small transformer anyway, I could easily go for dual secondaries and wire the whole thing up like shown. My only question was, is it a) necessary, b) recommendable or c) dangerous to leave out C100/C200 in this design?
Thank you guys!
martin
As far as I'm concerned, I'm only referring to the version Zen-Mod has shown (attached below). I don't want to get rid of caps (some caps actually do sound really good ;-), and I don't think the symmetrical ps sounds better than the single one. But, If I want to build this buffer from diskrete parts, hand-wired, on a spare pcb, I find the Zen-Mod version to be much easier indeed.
In this version one can omit: C100/C200, R2/R3 (the 10k's), C3, D1 and R4/D2 (even though one can omit these two in the single supply version, too).
I don't want to use a wall wart, because I really don't like them (again, not because of bad sound, but because I want to have everything in one enclosure). So, if I'm going to buy a small transformer anyway, I could easily go for dual secondaries and wire the whole thing up like shown. My only question was, is it a) necessary, b) recommendable or c) dangerous to leave out C100/C200 in this design?
Thank you guys!
martin
Attachments
What did you use?
For the guys who bought from Digi-Key, I am putting together an order and have everything figured out except what resistor to use for R1. I figured just about anything would work there but looking at the board there isn't a lot of space, to quote Frank Zappa's tune "Inca Roads", "build a place or leave a space for such a thing to land"
So, my question is for those guys out there who did order form Digi-Key, what did you get from them for this 3 watt 1 ohm resistor?
"Did a vehicle
Come from somewhere out there
Just to land in the Andes?
Was it round
and did it have
A motor
Or was it
Something
Different"
F.Z.
Thanks
Keith Lockwood
For the guys who bought from Digi-Key, I am putting together an order and have everything figured out except what resistor to use for R1. I figured just about anything would work there but looking at the board there isn't a lot of space, to quote Frank Zappa's tune "Inca Roads", "build a place or leave a space for such a thing to land"
So, my question is for those guys out there who did order form Digi-Key, what did you get from them for this 3 watt 1 ohm resistor?
"Did a vehicle
Come from somewhere out there
Just to land in the Andes?
Was it round
and did it have
A motor
Or was it
Something
Different"
F.Z.
Thanks
Keith Lockwood
Hi there
I just started making a B1 using the Pass Labs board.
I can't get my head around what the CCW,W,CW and input switch connections are? Is there a wiring diagram somewhere?
Actually I am only using 1 input because I have a separate input selector. So I don't need the switch on the b1 board.
thanks
I just started making a B1 using the Pass Labs board.
I can't get my head around what the CCW,W,CW and input switch connections are? Is there a wiring diagram somewhere?
Actually I am only using 1 input because I have a separate input selector. So I don't need the switch on the b1 board.
thanks
chatziva said:
The CCW, W, and CW connections are for your volume pot - they stand for "counter clockwise", "wiper" and "clockwise" respectively. Consult the wiring diagram for your particular pot for details. CW may also be known as "input", W as "output", and CCW as "ground" in the supplied diagram.
The input switch connections are for a DPDT on-on switch two select between two inputs. If you don't need input selection, connect your single input to the middle of the three input switch pads (ie. the two that are not labelled L1, L2, R1 or R2).
-j
Sorry guys,
but what does C3 in the original NP design do? It is just parallel to a 15.000uf C2, so what effect does it have? Is it like a small MKP, paralleled to large electrolytics in an amps power supply? Because I never do that (I like the sound of a single large cap better), I'm thinking about leaving this cap out completely.
What do you think?
Thanks!
martin
but what does C3 in the original NP design do? It is just parallel to a 15.000uf C2, so what effect does it have? Is it like a small MKP, paralleled to large electrolytics in an amps power supply? Because I never do that (I like the sound of a single large cap better), I'm thinking about leaving this cap out completely.
What do you think?
Thanks!
martin
Face said:
Hi Face,
are you referring to the Black Gates I mentioned? If so, well, I like those small 4,7uF/50V BG N's quite a lot. After testing a wide range of film caps and comparing them to the BG's I found the BG's to be the most musical sounding caps of the ones I tested. BUT: There are OF COURSE some (rather expensive) film caps that sound very nice, too! (And some Russian pio's which are also excellent performers, like the MBGO 400V types.)
But I think we shouldn't discuss cap sound here, 'cause this is what everybody really has to find out on his own ;-)
martin
Diomedian said:
Waaaay back on page 56.
-j
Hi Diomedian,
yes, I also found that statement when I rushed through the whole thread, but come on: Take a cheap wall wart ps and a 15.000uF smoothing cap, and tune THIS SETUP with a high-grade-wow-I-can't-believe-it's-so-good- quality-film-cap?
Sorry, but I guess I got something completely wrong here... ;-)
Cheers
martin
I'm new to this thread, but I've recently completed the B1 (thanks go out to Nelson Pass and other contributors) - and I'm delighted with the results. Version One featured a fully regulated power supply - generating 20V DC, however additional improvement can be had by using a battery power supply. I recently hooked up a rechargeable 18V (measures 19.7V) lithium ion battery from my bosch drill - and man oh man - the results are outstanding! Cleaner, quieter, more detailed, more dimensional etc.
You can also use 2 x 9V batteries in series, but the lithium ion battery has more grunt...
You can also use 2 x 9V batteries in series, but the lithium ion battery has more grunt...
if anyone is interested.... all my diy projects (inc the b1) use the following excellent but very cheap caps. I have compared them with other very expensive caps!!!
see.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=143675&highlight=
see.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=143675&highlight=
Here is my B1 Buffer
Since these photo's where taken i have rehoused the buffer in an alluminium case and grounded the chassis, this made the sound much more clear.
It is the original version, but the pot is a 50k alps blue shunted with 47k AN Tants. I have also gain benefits by reducing the 1k input and ouput resistors to 330ohm.
Does anyone know how low i can take these resistors without introducing oscillation? I have read somewhere that 220ohm should be ok. Can anyone clarify this for me please?
Thanks
Alon
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Since these photo's where taken i have rehoused the buffer in an alluminium case and grounded the chassis, this made the sound much more clear.
It is the original version, but the pot is a 50k alps blue shunted with 47k AN Tants. I have also gain benefits by reducing the 1k input and ouput resistors to 330ohm.
Does anyone know how low i can take these resistors without introducing oscillation? I have read somewhere that 220ohm should be ok. Can anyone clarify this for me please?
Thanks
Alon
Malka07 said:
Are you using a wall wart? Did you just run a wire from the power ground to the chassis? I find with the introduction of the B1 into my system, the highs are a touch congested. Maybe it's just that I've never really heard them before, maybe I need some breaking in, or maybe chassis-grounding the circuit will sort things out.
thanks,
-j