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#541 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Italy
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Quote:
Yes you need one for each input . I believe they are for avoid parasistic oscillations . And to comment the udailey post about PS buzzing , I can tell that it comes either from the circuit layout ( wich need a coherent ground plane IMHO ), from Bad contacts at the output , and also from the amp to which the B1 is connected . I mean you could connect batteries at the B1 and still have the buzz. |
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#542 |
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Passive Aggressive
diyAudio Member
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I just bought a bunch of copperclad FR4 and CEM (whatever that is) from ebay. I will redo the B1 at some point soon, but I will also try batteries and see if it is the supply on the B1. The amp did not buzz before though when I had just some pots attached to the inputs.
Uriah |
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#543 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi,
your buzz sounds like a signal return or grounding fault. What precisely did you change when you inserted the B1? |
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#544 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Italy
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I very much like this , but cant explain why .
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#545 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Denmark
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Quote:
I think your zener will have to be reversed... |
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#546 |
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Passive Aggressive
diyAudio Member
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Check this out. When I touch the volume pot for the right channel the buzz increases. If I touch the bare lead of ANYTHING on the B1 the buzz increases. However, I, just this morning, turned on only the amp. No B1, no CDP. There was a faint buzz. So, then I turned on the B1 and the buzz immediately increased in volume. Do you think I have a ground loop somewhere or is this probably a buzz in my transformer that is getting into the B1 and being amplified?
Uriah |
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#547 |
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Passive Aggressive
diyAudio Member
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Andrew,
What I changed: I only put the B1 between the CDP and the Amp connected by RCA cables. I then removed the pots on the amp and now the signal goes into a 1k resistor and then there is a 22k to ground then the input pin of the amp. I think, now, that there is a buzz/humm somewhere in the amp that somehow gets to the B1 and then gets amplified. The only way I can imagine it getting to the B1 is through the ground so maybe I need a DC blocking cap on the ground coming from the wall. Do you agree that this might help? Maybe I am starting to get OT since it seems like this sound is only amplified by the pots in the B1 because it already existed in the Amp. Uriah |
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#548 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Italy
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Quote:
Quote:
On the wall wart is ok to make the rectifier bridge and a first bank of capacitors . I use 20000 u F . Then inside of the B1 box I used another bank of capacitors plus the voltage regulator . Remember that the pots of the b1 only attenuate what is at its input . Moreover The B1 almost has not noise , thats why also is convenient to have the pots at the input . Personally I didnt noticed any change in noise varying the position of the pots . So it may be something else . Check out the ground arrangements.
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#549 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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I don't think I've seen this question asked in the thread, but I've been reading it over the course of a few days.
Can the B1 be used to drive two sets of outputs? (i.e. main full range amp and a set of subs) Possibly another output be connected at the source-drain connection between QX00 and QX01? |
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#550 |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2008
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nelson pass, what would happen if you put the volume pot after the b1 circuitry?
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