B1 Buffer Preamp

I....
Any one know how to tone down the bass of this preamp? Resistors are shinkoh Tantalums, Audio Note Tantalums, Riken Carbon at the outputs and Z foil TX instruments at the input. Volume pot is Blue Alps 50K.
The input cuts the base at 0.159 Hz and the output at 0.072 Hz if you have very low load but let's say you have 10 kohms you will end up with 1.59 Hz. Besides that you will have a flat frequency response. I think your speakers have a weak treble maybe?
 
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I just replaced the 10uF 630v capacitors in my Pass B1 preamp. I was using a pair of Clarity ESA's and just swapped in a pair of Obbligato Gold's, same value. Right off the bat with no break in there was a noticeable difference. The sound stage became more 3D or holographic. The overall sound is a bit softer and less forward with more air and transparency. Bass is toned down slightly which is a good thing because the preamp has way too much bass. Treble has more air and detail. It is also a bit more prominent. The sound stage is much wider and taller. They definitely are a bit on the warm side like the Clarity ESA's. I don't have the caps soldered in yet. They are connected using alligator clips. I won't make a final determination as to whether I will keep them in the B1 or put them in the Pass balanced preamp that I am building (Bride of Son of Zen) until I have about 50 hours on them. The ESA's have a more focused sound. The caps are paired with Mundorf M-Caps, 1uF 630v.

Any one know how to tone down the bass of this preamp? Resistors are shinkoh Tantalums, Audio Note Tantalums, Riken Carbon at the outputs and Z foil TX instruments at the input. Volume pot is Blue Alps 50K.

Amazing.. A veritable Audio Weenie shopping list of bits.... complete with the parroting (of course) All of the above parts Brochure Babbles re Resolution and Detail improvement .
Yet You complain the Sounds are Bass heavy/Treble light.
Which IS odd cuz that's an atypical result.

Clearly: Said bits ain't quite right ...and /or.. Your other gear needs serious attention /replacement.
 
Amazing.. A veritable Audio Weenie shopping list of bits.... complete with the parroting (of course) All of the above parts Brochure Babbles re Resolution and Detail improvement .
Yet You complain the Sounds are Bass heavy/Treble light.
Which IS odd cuz that's an atypical result.

Clearly: Said bits ain't quite right ...and /or.. Your other gear needs serious attention /replacement.


The Preamp sounds great. All the parts were picked to give a warm, organic and detailed sound. Z foil resistors on the input, Carbon Rikens at the output and tantalums for everything else. Caps were also picked for clarity, transparency and warmth. The preamp has a mid bass hump from about 55-80hz compared to other preamps that I have tried in this system. Switching to Obbligato Gold caps from the Clarity ESA's helped a little with the bass. I fixed the issue with electronic room equalization though. I am aware of room placement of speakers and have tried to fix the bass issue with speaker placement. No complaints about the treble. I was just commenting on the difference between the Clarity and Obbligato caps which I find interesting, especially since I have an EE friend who doesn't believe that they make a difference.

I am a newbie to DIY but not to high end audio gear and sound. Right now, I am learning and having fun building and experimenting with DIY audio gear with my son.

Happy New Year to All!
 
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Amazing.. A veritable Audio Weenie shopping list of bits.... complete with the parroting (of course) All of the above parts Brochure Babbles re Resolution and Detail improvement .
Yet You complain the Sounds are Bass heavy/Treble light.
Which IS odd cuz that's an atypical result.

Clearly: Said bits ain't quite right ...and /or.. Your other gear needs serious attention /replacement.

OR your post in your complaining about F6 not sounding right
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/289328-me-my-new-f6-2.html#post4669805
What you said:
So Please: Don't insult My intelligence and I won't needs insult yours

Just be nice
 
Is the mid bass hump a matter of perception or did u measure it? Just curious what inspired that observation.




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This was measured. But you can hear it. Equalization fixed the issue. I have a behringer DEQ2496 with mic. Also have an old Rane 31 band equalizer. I don't really like putting these things in the signal path but they both work. The Behringer unfortunately lowers the gain a bit but it has a gain boost.

This is for my son and he does not mind. He has my hand me down Parasound A21 amp and he was using my old Van Alstine Hybrid tube preamp. He prefers the warmer sound of the B1. We are having fun building a BOSOZ to replace the B1. The B1 does not have enough gain on some music.
 
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This was measured. But you can hear it. Equalization fixed the issue. I have a behringer DEQ2496 with mic. Also have an old Rane 31 band equalizer. I don't really like putting these things in the signal path but they both work. The Behringer unfortunately lowers the gain a bit but it has a gain boost.

This is for my son and he does not mind. He has my hand me down Parasound A21 amp and he was using my old Van Alstine Hybrid tube preamp. He prefers the warmer sound of the B1. We are having fun building a BOSOZ to replace the B1. The B1 does not have enough gain on some music.

Got it! Thanks for the info. [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Frugal B1 with BF862's

Finished my low cost B1 the weekend. I used matched BF862’s as straight replacements for the 2SK170’s. The PCB is my own implementation of point-to-point, by positioning the components on Perspex. I am not clever/crafty enough to do dead-bug style. Largely Vishay components used – MKP 1839 and MKP 1848 caps with RN55 resistors. Powered by a 19V laptop brick. Apart from using BF862’s the only other mod was changing the output resistors (R104, R204) from 1K to 100R.

The enclosure is made from 9mm MDF and perspex. The most expensive item was the can of spray-paint. A slight upgrade compared to the enclosure in Post 4107.

How does it sound? Well, GREAT so far – compared to my existing 30 year old Hafler clone (long overdue for retirement). More detail, better definition, more natural, not harsh on the top end, deeper and better defined bass. I am very happy. My B1 will be driving ACA’s soon.
 

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  • 2. B1 Final connections.jpg
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  • 3. B1 Ready for testing.jpg
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I like the perspex p2p solution.
What did you use as soldering posts mounted on the perspex?

I use 1.5mm ferrules (with a 3.7mm drill bit), available here at any electrical shop - used for joining electrical cables. Got the idea from the old turret boards used for the older tube amps (Fender and Marshall amps I think). Probably not the best solution to get short signal paths and eliminate emf - but it works fine for me. This the 3rd amp I have done this way.
 
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Finished my low cost B1 the weekend. I used matched BF862’s as straight replacements for the 2SK170’s. The PCB is my own implementation of point-to-point, by positioning the components on Perspex. I am not clever/crafty enough to do dead-bug style. Largely Vishay components used – MKP 1839 and MKP 1848 caps with RN55 resistors. Powered by a 19V laptop brick. Apart from using BF862’s the only other mod was changing the output resistors (R104, R204) from 1K to 100R.

The enclosure is made from 9mm MDF and perspex. The most expensive item was the can of spray-paint. A slight upgrade compared to the enclosure in Post 4107.

How does it sound? Well, GREAT so far – compared to my existing 30 year old Hafler clone (long overdue for retirement). More detail, better definition, more natural, not harsh on the top end, deeper and better defined bass. I am very happy. My B1 will be driving ACA’s soon.

Very nice work DIYRookie. I like the clear Perspex too!

I have to admit that I had to look very hard to find the BF862's. In my circuits I have found that the 2SK170 and BF862 are pretty much interchangeable from simulation standpoint and in practice. Except for mechanically mounting it, pretty much drop in replacements.

If you want to see a frugal B1, here is mine, all on single 6x8cm veroboard. Furthermore I am using no name components (CBB film caps), but it does sound nice anyway. :)

582352d1480246275-jumas-head-amp-b1-pre-01.jpg
 
If you want to see a frugal B1, here is mine, all on single 6x8cm veroboard. Furthermore I am using no name components (CBB film caps), but it does sound nice anyway. :)

582352d1480246275-jumas-head-amp-b1-pre-01.jpg

Thank you X, but when I see something like this I do feel like a Rookie. Not sure how you do this - but I am learning!

I sometimes feel like a child eavesdropping on adult conversation on the forum. :D
 
I use 1.5mm ferrules (with a 3.7mm drill bit), ................

what is this?
Ferrule is the thin plated copper tube that slips over a stranded wire for future fixing/screw down?

OT, sorry, but ferrule is obviously a generic name for many similar things. The ones I use are for joining cables. Not sure what they are called in your part of the world.
how does the 3.7mm drill bit fit with a 1.5mm ferrule?