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#1271 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
No, i was going to use a diffrent chassis, hence the reason for the B1 in the first place. I didnt want to run a 50k signal over external interconnects. |
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#1272 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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The B1 buffers go at the source ends not the receiver ends.
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#1273 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Indeed it does. |
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#1274 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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why
if its function is to buffer- high input impedance and relatively low output impedance - voltage transfer from the sources and mot modulated by the imput of the amp inquiring minds wanna know r |
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#1275 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
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there may be some confusion here?
I was told it should go like this: source--> attenuator--> B1--> amp |
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#1276 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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All,
I have been working on a B1 BOM while I wait for my board to arrive from passlab. I am a noob at this so please be gentle if I made mistakes. I have been sourcing parts mostly from Mouser and Digikey but welcome all suggestions from other vendors and will add them. http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?k...etpEM1-8JYImCQ Thanks!
__________________
My adventure: http://www.1414audio.com/ |
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#1277 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Quote:
Most source equipment is designed to send a good quality signal when the load impedance is high. Inserting an interconnect between typical units causes conflict and adding a pot/attenuator makes this conflict even worse. What we require is a source with a low output impedance, 10r to 500r is OK. The power amps should have an input impedance in the range 20k to 100k. Insert an attenuator and cables between the two upsets all this carefully arranged impedance matching, by adding capacitance and mismatching the source impedance. Add a buffer after the pot and normality is restored. But, where? Low impedances with good output current capability can drive a power amp's high impedance input in parallel with the interconnect cable capacitance. A pot cannot do this. In steps the buffer to help out. Fit the attenuator where it is convenient. Add a buffer to drive the cables and present the low source impedance to the power amps. Place the power amps beside the speakers. Ensure the source can drive the pot impedance in parallel with the cable capacitance. If not then add a further buffer to the source. The buffer goes in the source not at the receiver. |
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#1278 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Saratoga NY
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Quote:
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#1279 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Saratoga NY
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Quote:
if the the former condition, you will normally be listening with the pot in front at full volume, which eliminates the concept of large attenuation followed by large gain (which you want to avoid) If so, the question, then, is whether you need the zero gain active buffering between the volume pot (that the b1 provides) and the existing preamp gain stage. To answer this, you need to provide the nitty gritty details of the exisiting existing preamp input impedance, and length and type of cables proposed between B1 and preamp. Cables have typical capacitance of 30-80pf/foot. |
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#1280 | |
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diyAudio Member
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I have not put a volume control on the input, becuase i want to get the highest quality volume control possible for a certain budget, without confining it to one component. The preamp is still in the making, i am currently using somthing else as a preamp with a RK27 on the input. Not good enough.
I will be only using about 1ft of cable between the B1 and my preamp. I can scrap the B1 all together, and just use the volume control but then i will be sending 50K over an interconnect, which is not a good idea... Quote:
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