It's playing now, my first DIY Pass, definitely not the last
Proof that Pass DIY is a very contagious disease.
I suffer from it too.
Uriah,
Honestly. I'm sure your wife accepts that you COULD have worse vices than building hifi for fun. Booze? Women? Illicit drugs? Gambling?
Nope! hifi..
Separate PSU and Umbilical Cord Conductors
The PassDIY bug has gone systemic in my case. I foresee building several variations of the B-1. Thus, I plan to build a single outboard PSU to use across different renditions of the B-1 and to use for a differential SK170 follower that I plan to build (dual polarity PSU). What are the typical conductors included in the umbilical cord for a single polarity PSU? Obviously, a conductor each for the VCC+, the signal ground, and the chassis ground. Any other conductors to include? Is there a standard power connector that is typically used. Also, if I use a thermistor from the signal ground on the PSU chassis ground then should I not use a thermistor from signal ground to to the B-1 chassis ground? Safety tells me "yes" and ground loop consideration tells me "no." Thanks for any comments. L
The PassDIY bug has gone systemic in my case. I foresee building several variations of the B-1. Thus, I plan to build a single outboard PSU to use across different renditions of the B-1 and to use for a differential SK170 follower that I plan to build (dual polarity PSU). What are the typical conductors included in the umbilical cord for a single polarity PSU? Obviously, a conductor each for the VCC+, the signal ground, and the chassis ground. Any other conductors to include? Is there a standard power connector that is typically used. Also, if I use a thermistor from the signal ground on the PSU chassis ground then should I not use a thermistor from signal ground to to the B-1 chassis ground? Safety tells me "yes" and ground loop consideration tells me "no." Thanks for any comments. L
this doesn't allow your variations to include differences in the PS which yield wildly different final results...
For now, I am building the AMB Sigma 11 and 22 PSUs. My plan is to temporarily socket the resistors that control the regulated voltages. At least I should be able to easily change regulated voltage settings. But as you say, I will be using an invariant PS except for voltage. Eventually, I plan to build one of the "simpler" Pass regulated supplies from the Zen series. I may build the umbilical cord to be compatible with a battery supply as well. I have a bunch of UPS 12V batteries. Anyone know the typical noise levels for lead acid, NiMH, and Lithium batteries. Are they different? Thanks for your comment. L
I am switching over to the sedAudio website.
I case you are wondering,"sed" stands for "Someone Else Do It"
My B1 fired up for the first time yesterday with loud hum from the right channel and about 50% distortion from the left channel. After about two minutes the right channel went totally silent. I assume that means something roached.
I am figuring this amounts a total loss of my investment(I used expensive parts to boot), not to mention all my time in planning and construction because I have absolutely no clue how to fix it.
It's DOA. trash, rubbish, refuse, scrap, garbage, junk,fodder for the land fill .
I am glad everyone else in the thread seems to have been successful with theirs and are enjoying music. Music is the last thing I want to hear now. I think I will bag this stupid audiophile hobby after more than 35 years.
This DIY stuff is not for me. I'm too shamefully ******* stupid for it.
Here is a good rule of thumb. If you might be stupid, buy something that already works that someone that isn't stupid already built. Save your self the immense disappointment.
I case you are wondering,"sed" stands for "Someone Else Do It"
My B1 fired up for the first time yesterday with loud hum from the right channel and about 50% distortion from the left channel. After about two minutes the right channel went totally silent. I assume that means something roached.
I am figuring this amounts a total loss of my investment(I used expensive parts to boot), not to mention all my time in planning and construction because I have absolutely no clue how to fix it.
It's DOA. trash, rubbish, refuse, scrap, garbage, junk,fodder for the land fill .
I am glad everyone else in the thread seems to have been successful with theirs and are enjoying music. Music is the last thing I want to hear now. I think I will bag this stupid audiophile hobby after more than 35 years.
This DIY stuff is not for me. I'm too shamefully ******* stupid for it.
Here is a good rule of thumb. If you might be stupid, buy something that already works that someone that isn't stupid already built. Save your self the immense disappointment.
Damn. That sucks. I have had that experience too and while it is unpleasant I sincerely doubt all of your parts are roached unless it caught on fire.
There has to be a good/great service tech in your area that can take a peek at it...so maybe let them be the "sed".
Whatever you decide to do Keith I wish you the best,
Chris
p.s. I always think it is a small miracle when a project works the first time and that goes for ALL projects hifi or otherwise.
There has to be a good/great service tech in your area that can take a peek at it...so maybe let them be the "sed".
Whatever you decide to do Keith I wish you the best,
Chris
p.s. I always think it is a small miracle when a project works the first time and that goes for ALL projects hifi or otherwise.
It was about 45 years ago when I was working on a DIY power supply. I ended up across the room with my head breaking through the plaster. That's my excuse for today.
Were there flames? Did your source and power amp survive? If you can settle down and be accepting of some Q/A from the group then I bet we can get it going. L
Thank you for your kind replys.
I didn't see any flames and didn't even smell that toasted electronics aroma.
I have no idea if either my amp or CD player died during this process. I need to give this a few days before I can approach it again with a more open mind. I can't stand to even look at the stupid thing right now.
Thanks,
Keith
I didn't see any flames and didn't even smell that toasted electronics aroma.
I have no idea if either my amp or CD player died during this process. I need to give this a few days before I can approach it again with a more open mind. I can't stand to even look at the stupid thing right now.
Thanks,
Keith
Did you use the Pass B-1 circuit board? When you are up to it, it would be extremely helpful if you could post photos of the top and bottom of the circuit board. Right away, I wonder if the source and drain pins are reversed. Or, if the power leads may be reversed. Thereafter, it would be helpful to verify a couple voltage points before reconnecting the source, power amp, and speakers.
It is a Pass board.
Although,I happen to be the last remaining person on the planet without a digital camera.
Source and drain pins reversed? No clue what that means
How would I be able to tell if the power leads were reversed and wouldn't that just result in reversing the power polarity?
I am wide open to ideas. What and where might those voltage points be, and what should they be?
Although,I happen to be the last remaining person on the planet without a digital camera.
Source and drain pins reversed? No clue what that means
How would I be able to tell if the power leads were reversed and wouldn't that just result in reversing the power polarity?
I am wide open to ideas. What and where might those voltage points be, and what should they be?