jupiterjune said:
Magura--do you mean just sodium hydroxide? or is there another component?
Thanks, JJ
MPMarino--Wow, nice chasis!!! Why such thin metal though??? Yer not one of those guys who sweats over little details like "too heavy to lift?"
Sodium hydroxide (pure lye) is tough to find now. I found that the 'Zep' crystal drain opener at home depot works fine(6 bucks?). Although it leaves little black chunks on the bottom of the container. I think the crystals aren't dissolving entirely.
It already comes in at about 50lbs - with maybe 20lbs to go!!
I'm really disappointed with the way the knobs feel - too wobbly. They are large solid alu and don't feel right hanging off of a junkyard motorized pot and input selector. I'm building a bearing carriage with stainless shafts for the assembly to eliminate play and make 'er bullet proof..
mpmarino said:
put selector and pot on back of uckin' fugly case, and make extending shafts from front plate to back;
you can drill bigger holes in front plate and put bearings as shaft guides ...... if ya're nutzzzzzzzzz ....... look at Igor's preamp thread ;
or - be smart
and use messing as guidesedit:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1340228#post1340228
Zen Mod said:
put selector and pot on back of uckin' fugly case, and make extending shafts from front plate to back;
you can drill bigger holes in front plate and put bearings as shaft guides ...... if ya're nutzzzzzzzzz ....... look at Igor's preamp thread ;
or - be smart
edit:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1340228#post1340228
Naahh! Already been done.
I'm using two bearings per 'axle' with thrust washers to eliminate all play
Relay set-ups for atten and select so no shafts thru da case allowed or needed..
.....gotta come up with a clutch for the atten motor. I'm still 'junkin' for parts for the boards, so no time lost
edit: What is messing (well, in a preamp!)
The spots are dust, gotta love polishing if you've got a thing for chrome.
(= 2" diameter x 1.5" height)
I've tried everything from solid steel, to brass and solid aluminum.
All too hefty in the size i prefer, shaft guide or no, only ones that work well with solid knobs are the monster switches as used in the BT.
(= 2" diameter x 1.5" height)
I've tried everything from solid steel, to brass and solid aluminum.
All too hefty in the size i prefer, shaft guide or no, only ones that work well with solid knobs are the monster switches as used in the BT.
Let's not get started on knives.
I used to be in the survival frenzy, did telescopic SS Nunchaku's at 18.(which really hurt your head when you mess up during practicing) Also made Rambo knife clones, oh dear.
And then there was awdiau ! (ok, plus bow and arrow shooting when i get tightbutted)
Leatherman's are cool, not to mix up with leathermen
I used to be in the survival frenzy, did telescopic SS Nunchaku's at 18.(which really hurt your head when you mess up during practicing) Also made Rambo knife clones, oh dear.
And then there was awdiau ! (ok, plus bow and arrow shooting when i get tightbutted)
Leatherman's are cool, not to mix up with leathermen
mpmarino said:
Naahh! Already been done.
I'm using two bearings per 'axle' with thrust washers to eliminate all play
edit: What is messing (well, in a preamp!)
Messing is brass.
To get the nice tight feel from a knob (ok, I too can see this sounds unfortunate), simply use sealed bearings. From most manufacturers, the dessignation suffix is -2RS. If you want a real nice feel with a heavy knob, simply use a pair of bearings, or even 3.
Magura
Oh, and btw, hello from Lykke, we just had a small party at his place yesterday, but he can't go online due to computer issues.
?