OK... ZenMod ... that's really great that you are going to make such drawing's.. I really appreciate it.
I will have a look at it, and make schm. / pcb-layout at end of week then...
Please don't hurry up for my sake... I am allway's glad when somebody want's to help, as you allways do!!!
Well... I am actually finding this amousing, not that i am not a bit dissapointed, that i coulden't make my ''fancy'' inputselector behave as i would... But thing's are really clearing up in my head now... if you know what i mean. All that stuff, i allway's was wondering about how it was working, is suddently comming clear to me, while learning... That's something i can thank you for ZenMod....
But no more thinking for me today. Looking forward to see that layout you are comming up with !
Keep it up...
Godnight from Jesper
I will have a look at it, and make schm. / pcb-layout at end of week then...
Please don't hurry up for my sake... I am allway's glad when somebody want's to help, as you allways do!!!
Well... I am actually finding this amousing, not that i am not a bit dissapointed, that i coulden't make my ''fancy'' inputselector behave as i would... But thing's are really clearing up in my head now... if you know what i mean. All that stuff, i allway's was wondering about how it was working, is suddently comming clear to me, while learning... That's something i can thank you for ZenMod....
But no more thinking for me today. Looking forward to see that layout you are comming up with !
Keep it up...
Godnight from Jesper
lykkedk said:
greedy danske - he is now going to sleep
there it is
ask if you wanna ask ..........
I didn't draw 4 position switch for powering up relays...... that's even more trivial than this
also - I didn't draw attenuator .......... is that necessary ?
don't forget to place diode across each relay coil ......... appropriately oriented , off course
metalman said:Choky,
You drawing looks the same as my wiring and soldering ... very ugly
Probably why we both use PCB's eh!
Silly Serbie, wire nest attracts the rats!
Cheers, Terry
I was a Rodent in previous life - I use to hang on rec.audio.tubes
that was before repeated sodomizing of group by Andre Jute..........
blah ........... I must go to wash my mouth now ........
carpenter said:
I think you'd kill the 'magic', but I don't know for sure.
(BTW - I'm in the same quandary as you - Mr Carpenter)
My speakers only need a few watts. I don't care how efficient they are, I still want much more power than they need. When I play real loud (often) I 'don't want no' clipping. I think I am going to use Pumpkin to a home made active low pass (bal > SE) crossover to the Krell KSA50 to woofer, and (again) pumpkin to Babaleph to passive to altec horn.
I'm thinking I like keeping the passive on the highs. On the lows - active, where it really shines. Who knows, maybe it won't work well at all
I just gotta get rid of the DCX2496 - it's I really wanted to play F4 - it just doesn't fit in there ... well maybe a bridged one for the woofs but the Krell does an incredible job there!
mpmarino said:
Well, I though that by reducing the number of fets I'd have to lower the bias, but perhaps not. I crank my ZV7-T pretty hard and its fets are still making my horns sing like angles.
It just seems wasteful to have 100 watt on tap and only use 5 or 6 at the most.
Oh, those damnable horns.......
I guess my point is:
You'd like to run a balanced amp for your horns. The problem is that the F4 is only balanced in bridged configuration - and you'd like to keep it all F4. On top of it all, you only need a few watts for your horns.
In order to have a very low power bridged F4 you'd have to run the rails drastically low. My understanding is that the outputs don't perform as well once the rails get too low, and it seems to me that in this case it would be somewhere around the point of too low - so it seems like it's not practical to do this.
So, you'd either have to:
-Bridged F4 for woofer, unbalanced F4 for high - not balanced all the way
-Bridged F4 for woof and high - is this practical??
-Bridged F4 for woof and a different balanced amp for high - gain imbalance.
-bridged F4 and go all passive -plenty of pros and cons
-ditch the F4 and use different amps entirely??
I'm trying to think this through...
Please someone correct me if I'm wrong -
edit:
You'd like to run a balanced amp for your horns. The problem is that the F4 is only balanced in bridged configuration - and you'd like to keep it all F4. On top of it all, you only need a few watts for your horns.
In order to have a very low power bridged F4 you'd have to run the rails drastically low. My understanding is that the outputs don't perform as well once the rails get too low, and it seems to me that in this case it would be somewhere around the point of too low - so it seems like it's not practical to do this.
So, you'd either have to:
-Bridged F4 for woofer, unbalanced F4 for high - not balanced all the way
-Bridged F4 for woof and high - is this practical??
-Bridged F4 for woof and a different balanced amp for high - gain imbalance.
-bridged F4 and go all passive -plenty of pros and cons
-ditch the F4 and use different amps entirely??
I'm trying to think this through...
Please someone correct me if I'm wrong -
edit:
Yes, you can tell me, what about -in connection when running unbalanced ?As i see it, you are going to short pin 1 and pin 3 on XLR input's for running unbalanced input.
But when attenuator is placed somewhere at coax (russian?) cable the -in on pcb arent shorted anymore.
The shortning will be, whatever the attenuator is set to somewhere between 0 --> 10kohm in my situation ?
I assume that this is intented to be used with 4channel attennuator, so this is relavant for me to know...
Greedy Danska say's morning
Jesper
mpmarino said:I'm trying to think this through...
Please someone correct me if I'm wrong -
edit:
How about running bridged for the midbass?
For the top-end: remove 4 of the 6 fets and adjust bias to 1 amp per device (470 mV across source resistor)--then run that combo in a bridged configuration.
John
carpenter said:
How about running bridged for the midbass?
For the top-end: remove 4 of the 6 fets and adjust bias to 1 amp per device (470 mV across source resistor)--then run that combo in a bridged configuration.
John
Yes but you'd then have a amp that would strain to run a 8r load ...No?
Correct, and this is the quandary.
jeeeeeeeeeeeez!!
god mornin' to all, you are all drekin' nutz!!
seems that nobody in fact read all these crazy threads ...
it will be hard to cover all issues from last posts ......
woodie :
go to page one or two of F4 thread and look my mini F4 variant - for 16 ohms ; crank bias to 1A and you'll be good for at least 8W/8E in A class
like you said
CY :
why should I ? for unbal conversion ? use XLR with shorted 1 and 3 ......
if you mean - switching just ground on used input ( all inputs always connected to signal rails) ........ I'm not so hysteric regarding little takamisawa relays in signal path ....... this is no Blowtorch ,and never will be
greedy danske :
yes - it's intended to use 4 channel attenuator ; not exactly twice teuerer than simple stereo but certainly better and more versatile .
on input where 1 and 3 are shorted in XLR source's cable , lower leg of attenuator is shorted automatically , so you have plain stereo 2 channel pot automatically
Lyyyykkkkkkkkkk - what you must do now is - see what you have on output of
between + and gnd ,WITHOUT - shorted to gnd
you can use Pumpkin's output unbalanced - WITHOUT - shorting minus leg to gnd , but with somewhat lesser gain ........ comparing to "properly" terminated output
in that case you can one can use one routing to balanced amp (say for mids) and other routing ( just from positive leg and ground of Pumpkin's output) to unbalanced amp (say for highs) ;
IF - I repeat - IF gain for tweet amp is adequate , everything is solved .
if not - only solution is two additional main boards but - it's completely possible to feed 4 main boards from two Shunty boards ........... if ya are cheapskate ,as I am ........
unfortunately - there is no free lunch in some things ..............
I hope that I cover everything ....... good enough
god mornin' to all, you are all drekin' nutz!!
seems that nobody in fact read all these crazy threads
...it will be hard to cover all issues from last posts ......
woodie :
go to page one or two of F4 thread and look my mini F4 variant - for 16 ohms ; crank bias to 1A and you'll be good for at least 8W/8E in A class
like you said
CY :
why should I ? for unbal conversion ? use XLR with shorted 1 and 3 ......
if you mean - switching just ground on used input ( all inputs always connected to signal rails) ........ I'm not so hysteric regarding little takamisawa relays in signal path ....... this is no Blowtorch ,and never will be
greedy danske :
yes - it's intended to use 4 channel attenuator ; not exactly twice teuerer than simple stereo but certainly better and more versatile .
on input where 1 and 3 are shorted in XLR source's cable , lower leg of attenuator is shorted automatically , so you have plain stereo 2 channel pot automatically
Lyyyykkkkkkkkkk - what you must do now is - see what you have on output of
between + and gnd ,WITHOUT - shorted to gndyou can use Pumpkin's output unbalanced - WITHOUT - shorting minus leg to gnd , but with somewhat lesser gain ........ comparing to "properly" terminated output
in that case you can one can use one routing to balanced amp (say for mids) and other routing ( just from positive leg and ground of Pumpkin's output) to unbalanced amp (say for highs) ;
IF - I repeat - IF gain for tweet amp is adequate , everything is solved .
if not - only solution is two additional
main boards but - it's completely possible to feed 4 main boards from two Shunty boards ........... if ya are cheapskate ,as I am ........unfortunately - there is no free lunch in some things ..............
I hope that I cover everything ....... good enough