Pumpkin preamp - ordered by Steen , official making thread

A seasoned engineer with 30 years experience in building electronic circuits could have figured for himself a day ago that testing the sides of the Pumpkin for oscillation would have been easy peasy by taking either R9/R10 or R14/R15 gate resistors offline.
Part of the process is thinking for yourself.

The real engineering type would have measured each and every device himself before soldering, and tested every section of the circuit inbetween mounting on the board.
Old teach of mine said : trust is good, checking better.
Hard to communicate with someone who has total faith in the credentials, written by his own hand.

Worst case, you could have just asked someone to fix the boards for you.
Would have cost you P&P only, instead of the 10 Quid you charge for assembling DIY projects for others.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/200745-wtb-aleph-pre-amp.html#post2786620


Why are you so rude and abrasive ?

Why not just offer sound technical advice ?

Your comments about being PERFECT without any substantail evidence do you no favours.

I've admitted my failings.

I'm a systems engineer not an audio engineer.

The fault here has nothing to do with the construction, a point that you seem to miss.

Isolating either side of the amp has achieved nothing, something else that you have missed.

Caustic comments like "I am incompetent" don't bear well with your reputation.

I have repeatedly posted that Zen Mod thinks that is is a mis-match of components. Do I see any comments from you. NO.
 
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The fault here has nothing to do with the construction

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/201450-aleph-p1-7-a.html#post2799414
470nF 100V Capacitor - £0.10 : Quarndon Electronics

Your "Orange Drop" C3 carries the old Philips logo.
Buying old NOS parts for $0.15 each can be OK, provided one measures them.
You're welcome to call them the best.

Me has a very old piece of paper in the closet that reads Mil-Spec soldering certificate, could be the reason i'm rude and abrasive.
Other than that i'm a total idiot.
 

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one comment on the difference of pumpkin and B1 KatieandDad, for me the B1 is a bit more on the dark side.....can be pleasant or not

one of the best sound descriptions is here

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/124889-b1-buffer-preamp-49.html#post1589981

Did substantially better later with its special parallel regulators. Its still not as exciting as an analogous in attention large triode tube buffer non the less (IMHO). That one would cost 10 times more to make of course, takes heaters power, ages, and its a no no to beginners due to high voltage and inexperience in building with tubes.
 
Did substantially better later with its special parallel regulators. Its still not as exciting as an analogous in attention large triode tube buffer non the less (IMHO). That one would cost 10 times more to make of course, takes heaters power, ages, and its a no no to beginners due to high voltage and inexperience in building with tubes.

Is this your way of telling us less experienced members that it is not a good idea.:headshot: I was thinking of DC6V6
 
Hi,

finally tested my two pumpkie board one by one with music in a balanced out setting first with Up ampli ( test failed because speakers protection is always activated even if diff. offset is around 1-2-mV after caps) and after in an unbalanced output setting with my aleph 30.

In this configuration sound is present but is covered by a very loud noise like hum that seems a ground loop effect.

1)All current and voltage tests are ok.

2)Tryed to distance boards from trasfos without effect.

3) Wired all input and output as usual in my others pre hum-free.

4) Rca ground are isolated from chassis.

5)Changin' simple wire with coax wire don't produces variations on the noise level.

6)tryed boards with ugs-low voltage supply: always noise.


This pre is a very challenge for me but with your help I will win on it.:confused:

Ciao,

Anto
 
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/201450-aleph-p1-7-a.html#post2799414
470nF 100V Capacitor - £0.10 : Quarndon Electronics

Your "Orange Drop" C3 carries the old Philips logo.
Buying old NOS parts for $0.15 each can be OK, provided one measures them.
You're welcome to call them the best.

Me has a very old piece of paper in the closet that reads Mil-Spec soldering certificate, could be the reason i'm rude and abrasive.
Other than that i'm a total idiot.


I've sold them now, they're off to America.

As I said, Zen Mod did state that it might be a component mis-match but no-one at the time could offer any advice.

I'm a systems engineer. To me one 0.1uF cap is the same as another until you so called "experts" tell me otherwise.

I'm now playing with my B1, which works absolutely perfectly, just trying to "Brighten" it up a bit.

We are currently at the stage of playing with the 10uF output caps. I've got all manner of caps here from Mundorfs to Chinese Audiocaps.

I'm getting a lot of suggestions which is VERY VERY useful.