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#901 |
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diyAudio Member
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Did the schematic values change from the original on page 1?
Did it evolve while I wasn't looking? Wait a minute...I just found the article. ![]() Nice description of the heat sink, Nelson. Can't go wrong there! ![]() Thanks, V~
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I build, therefore I am. |
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#902 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Viña del Mar, Torreon
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Quote:
I Would suggest you move R13 throu R17 much coser to the power transistor, idem on the other side. It can be done very easy. This is because R13 should be as close as posible to the Gate pin to avoid oscilations. Otherwise the layout looks pretty good even though I din't check trace connections. |
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#903 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Auckland
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Quote:
For anybody who what's to know the reason... It is because for any amplifier circuit the the ratio of the feedback resistors only approximates the gain of the circuit because the open loop gain also has an affect too. The equation for the actual gain is: G = Vout/Vin = A/(1 + AxB) Where A is the amps open loop gain. and for a non inverting circuit B = Ri/(Rf + Ri) (or for the F5: R1 / (R5||R7+R1) or 10/(50+10) In a normal opamp A is very high and A/(1 + A) is effectively equal to 1 so the equation simplifies to: Vout/Vin = 1/B = (Rf+Ri)/Ri Now for the crux In the F5 design there is effectively 2 amplifiers with 2 feedback loops and 2 corresponding open loop gains. The first amp consist of Q1 and Q3 and the second is Q2 and Q4. The open loop gain each amp is different which causes the closed loop gain curves to be slightly different. If the gain curve of each half is identical then the distortions in each half is identical and then the distortions will be equal and opposite and can cancel each other out. So if you tweak the closed loop gain of each feedback network it is possible to make the gains to be almost identical and greatly improve the 2nd harmonic distortion. Cheers Tim |
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#904 | |
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diyAudio Editor
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
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Goffe,
I don't know much, but since Nelson said Quote:
Maybe it would be better to have the thermistor pads right next to the Output device pads so you don't need extension wires to connect the thermistors? Maybe switch the thermistor pad and related resistors with the V+or V- pads . It would be OK to have the V+/- pads more inboard I think... Also, since the V+/- would be closer to t he center then, maybe have thin traces from the V+ and V- each come to a pad closer to a ground pad to hook up LEDs (blue of course.. - maybe on either side of the input? If you bother with the LED idea, having resistor pads next to the pads for the LED is helpful to reduce the voltage.. |
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#905 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Quote:
Tom Gootee had a detailed description on his website how to do it. The really neat part of his process is using a printout of your circuit (on laserjet photopaper) as an iron-on. (apparently laser jet toner is mostly plastic). You get a really proffessional looking circuit board. JJ |
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#906 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
After etching I ironed on a silk screen. Johnny |
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#907 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...67#post1494067
From earlier in this thread. My first toner transfer PCB. Easy and quite serviceable. 7/10 |
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#908 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
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> So if you tweak the closed loop gain of each feedback network it is possible to make the gains to be almost identical and greatly improve the 2nd harmonic distortion.
Or you can also measure the transcoductances of the 4 transistors beforehand, and make sure (by design) that the open loop gains of both halves are identical. This is what I do. Patrick |
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#909 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Auckland
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Quote:
The good thing about this complementary feedback topology is you can get low distortion without matched parts and then you can tweak it to do better. Cheers Tim |
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#910 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: manila,PH
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Sorry this is OT:
whats the thread size of this hex screw?
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