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Old 27th May 2008, 12:45 AM   #881
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Default JUMA PCB

JUMA,
What software did you work with?

That is a really nice layout.

Anybody got any recommendations on an Etching kit in the states?;otherwise, I will wire this Point to point.

Mike
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Old 27th May 2008, 01:59 AM   #882
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Quote:
I'm going to go out on a limb and predict that you have a measurement error
as usual....

as near as I can figure, that particular mosfet was heated up a little when I re-soldered the wires to the terminal block I was using as a test jig. The mosfet was dumping heat to the heatsink it was pressed against faster than it was heating up. Hence, Vgs went up as I watched.

for anyone who didn't notice and who has a pile of IRF240's laying around (and I can't imaginine why any Passaficianos would have those...... ) -- Mouser has the SFH9240's in stock, and they are inexpensive.

JJ
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Old 27th May 2008, 02:29 AM   #883
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Very nice layout Juma!

Very nice layout Goffe!



I have etched my boards and started populating them, but a funny thing happened to me on the way to mounting the output devices and drilling the heatsinks ... I got this crazy idea and I blame it all those crazy fools in the full-range forum ... I put everything on hold for now to build a CNC router table

I'll be back one day to complete my F5, hopefully before summer's out

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Old 27th May 2008, 06:49 AM   #884
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Default Re: JUMA PCB

Quote:
Originally posted by mithomas
JUMA,
What software did you work with?
It's Sprint-Layout 5.0 (http://www.abacom-online.de/uk/html/sprint-layout.html) - 40 EUR only
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Old 27th May 2008, 11:13 AM   #885
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Quote:
Originally posted by twitchie
Very nice layout Juma!

Very nice layout Goffe!



I have etched my boards and started populating them, but a funny thing happened to me on the way to mounting the output devices and drilling the heatsinks ... I got this crazy idea and I blame it all those crazy fools in the full-range forum ... I put everything on hold for now to build a CNC router table

I'll be back one day to complete my F5, hopefully before summer's out


It took me a weekend to build one: The Elektor Conlinbus Profiler.
Should let you get back to the real interesting F building activities real quickly.
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Old 27th May 2008, 11:55 AM   #886
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Default Re: JUMA PCB

Quote:
Originally posted by mithomas

Anybody got any recommendations on an Etching kit in the states?;otherwise, I will wire this Point to point.

Mike

Mike, you don't need t no itching kit read this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...81#post1073081
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Old 27th May 2008, 12:30 PM   #887
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Default Re: Re: JUMA PCB

Quote:
Originally posted by juma



Mike, you don't need t no itching kit read this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...81#post1073081
Read the thread which Juma cites -- you can get 2% H2O2 as an antiseptic in the drug store, and muriatic acid (for cleaning brick at the hardware store).

The F5 design is so spare in the number of parts there's no reason it couldn't be put together on RS proto-typing boards.
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Old 27th May 2008, 12:41 PM   #888
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Default PCB

Yes, I used RS boards for P2P for F2.

Just wanted to try it really.

Jack, I assume the right parts are in your store now for F5,
order two for Stereo?
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Old 27th May 2008, 02:13 PM   #889
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Default JUMA post

Juma, thanks,
Okay,
So I will try to spell it out for myself..

so your method is to tape on printout for drilling holes (got to find real tiny bits, hmmm)

Then I suppose take this printout off and then handraw the circuit with a marker of the copper PCB sheet. What type of water proof marker should I use, not a Shapie permanent marker I suppose? More like a crayon?

Add into Hydrogen peroxide and Muratic acid solution.
Then add flux, and then solder the traces on I would assume with some real wide Solder with a wide tip iron. Sounds like cooking...

It will then look like my old Hafler DH-200 boards.

Did I misunderstand something?

Mike:
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Old 27th May 2008, 03:31 PM   #890
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THis questions has been askd a couple of times...I searched the thead, but do not really understand the correct answer, so please be patient with me:

As the bridged version of the F4 sounded so much better on my speaker:

Can I simply use two F5 as a bridged amp without any changes (like in the F4) ?

If not: What needs to be changed ?

THX a lot
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