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Old 1st May 2010, 03:51 PM   #7821
michal is offline michal  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erpiii View Post
Pictures, or it didn't happen!
Here it is. I knew it was going to be very special amp, so I decided to make it look different.

I went with heat pipes, as the least expensive finned aluminum heat sinks would cost me around $120. Those were $14 each delivered. Saved some $$$, but took way more time to build. Because of limited chassis size, caps were mounted on the outside. Reminds me of a tube amp.

Voltage regulator circuit had to be added, so fans can get 5V-12V range from 48V. I may swap it for temperature controller circuit in the future.

Each channel has 300VA Antec 2x18, 4 x 47'000uF caps, bride rectifiers are on internal heat sinks, and they do get warm. I have drilled some holes in top and bottom surfaces to allow for natural air convection. I may add another small quiet fan on the back surface to lower the internal temperature.

The heat pipe approach works great. Each can dissipate 90W with fan at full speed, so it can dissipate less with fan at lower speed. eBay has plenty of heat pipe sinks from older hot P4s that would work great for class A output devices, with some modifications of course...

Still need to add fuses

Once again, thank you for sharing the design Mr. Pass.
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Last edited by michal; 1st May 2010 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 1st May 2010, 04:05 PM   #7822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
no coax - just two twisted tiniest wires ......
its better to ripoff the two cables? Now the red is for the signal and the black together with the shield are for ground!

Its a balanced version.

Ps. michal nice idea!
I use only one fan for my Pc so as to enjoy late night music...
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Old 1st May 2010, 04:56 PM   #7823
Blues is offline Blues  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michal View Post
Here it is. I knew it was going to be very special amp, ...
I would have voted to have the fans at the back to blow the heat into the room...
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Old 1st May 2010, 04:58 PM   #7824
michal is offline michal  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blues View Post
I would have voted to have the fans at the back to blow the heat into the room...
That's how there were originally mounted, but then the heated air was getting onto the caps, and caps were getting warmed up.
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Old 1st May 2010, 05:08 PM   #7825
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Michal, Congratulations on a successful project!

Could you describe a bit more about how the heat pipes were attached, mounted etc. I am not familiar with these and a description/photos would be much appreciated. I have used fans in the past and they can solve a number of problems. Your build is so compact and attractive.

Thanks
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Old 1st May 2010, 06:06 PM   #7826
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OOOOhhh very nice.

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Old 1st May 2010, 06:35 PM   #7827
udailey is offline udailey  United States
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I love the different variations. Nice job to both of you!
Have considered the heatpipes many times but am always at the electronics store looking at them and wondering 'well, how much heat do they dissipate?" The manufacturers dont often post dissipation on the packaging of the heatpipe heatsinks.
I use 30awg silver wire and then put teflon tube on it. One ground one signal. Switchcraft RCAs. Nice sound.
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Old 1st May 2010, 06:58 PM   #7828
michal is offline michal  Canada
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Thanks for the positive feedback

Heat pipes are now very popular in computer processor cooling, and CPUs usually dissipate > 60W when fully loaded. CPU coolers also have to work inside the computer case, thus with higher ambient temperature. So such cooler will have excellent performance handling lower dissipation, at lower ambient temperature with lower fan speed.

After I saw one fellow diy'er using them as well, and chatting with bear and gmilitano I decided to go for it.

I got mine at ncix.com, price matched trough shopbot.ca. They are Coolermaster Hyper 101I Direct Contact 2 Heatpipe CPU Heatsink for socket LGA1156 and LGA775 with 80MM Bearing Fan.

One can use even quieter fan, look for heat sink and fan recommendations at silentpcreview.com, but then costs go up.

Mounting was time consuming. I had to drill bigger holes, get some aluminum bar to attach the transistor to the heat sink, as well as attach the heat sink to the chassis, and then PCB to the transistors. I'm in a process of making up a page explaining the construction.

B1 and iBiBs with FE127e are next
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Old 1st May 2010, 08:05 PM   #7829
alazira is offline alazira  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
those spks are good for nothing - plain screamers ;

send them to me , for proper disposal ; you'll pay shipment , I have no intention to make double favor to you

- try tiny solid core for input signal wires - 0,1mm dia , twisted .
Wow ZM,

38 gauge wire!

I've tried as low as 32 gauge but found the sweet spot (in the equipment I was using at the time) to be between 24 and 28. For speaker wire I'm currently using 20g. But hey, with 38g wire even gold would be affordable
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Old 2nd May 2010, 12:09 AM   #7830
wadejg is offline wadejg  United States
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Default F5 with top end of Infinity RS1b's??

I am just about to set up my first formal listening room and in this room I have been waiting to set up my newly acquired pair of Infinity RS-1b speakers.

Thus far my F5 has been used to drive a pair of Infinity Composition Prelude speakers which are 94db efficient (and have built in sub amps). And to say the F5 amplifier sounds great with these speakers would be an understatement.

My question is, will the F5 be up to the task of driving the ribbon tweeter and midrange panel array found in the RS1b's? The RS1'b's have to be biamped, and the bass arrays will be driven by the "heftier" Pass designed Adcom 555II, or a pair of Adcom 565's, or a Bryston 4bst

Anybody with thoughts?

Thanks,
Justin Wade
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