Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Pass Labs
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Pass Labs This forum is dedicated to Pass Labs discussion.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 24th January 2010, 09:15 AM   #6751
diyAudio Member
 
bobodioulasso's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: On the moon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EUVL View Post
> That's one. I can think of a couple others...

Let me make a fool of myself :

Connect the source of Q1 & Q2 on each (left or right) half together, then connect these two junctions across the two halves with a 10R resistor. The feedback resistors are then 25R and goes from output to the source junction. Non-inverting then.

According to John Curl, this "H" diff pair has very good distortion cancellation.


Patrick
Could'nt you show a little drawing, please?
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th January 2010, 09:23 AM   #6752
osscar is offline osscar  Latvia
diyAudio Member
 
osscar's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Riga, LV
I finally connected together correctly generator and scope.
Here is a picture with a 20kHz square signal on dummy load (i try higher frequency signals also - looks good too), In addition, I connected a scope with 8 ohms speakers- and played Denon audio technical CD (with different signals etc) Even at max volume with passive preamp there is not visible clipping.
After this I conclude that my amplifier works well technically. The rest is a matter of taste.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg f5-20K-sqr2.jpg (198.0 KB, 589 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th January 2010, 05:52 PM   #6753
a.wayne is offline a.wayne  United States
diyAudio Member
 
a.wayne's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Front Row Center
Quote:
Originally Posted by osscar View Post
I finally connected together correctly generator and scope.
Here is a picture with a 20kHz square signal on dummy load (i try higher frequency signals also - looks good too), In addition, I connected a scope with 8 ohms speakers- and played Denon audio technical CD (with different signals etc) Even at max volume with passive preamp there is not visible clipping.
After this I conclude that my amplifier works well technically. The rest is a matter of taste.
Oscar , could you put up a 20 Hz Square wave , 1 watt , 10 watt etc ...
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th January 2010, 05:53 PM   #6754
gautamz is offline gautamz  India
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
I have managed to get 2sj108 but could not get 2sk370... so instead I have picked up 2sk364. The main differences I can see from the datasheets is that 364 has higher power dissipation and higher forward transconductance... Also the 364 datasheet does not contain noise data.

Will 364 be a decent replacement for the 370?

One more thing , I have only managed to get the GR series ... I couldn't find the BL series ... will this be a problem? NP's article said BL is preferable but GR and V should also do.

I guess best way is to try and see if it works
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th January 2010, 05:56 PM   #6755
osscar is offline osscar  Latvia
diyAudio Member
 
osscar's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Riga, LV
ok, i will try to measure after few days and then post results.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th January 2010, 10:09 PM   #6756
diyAudio Member
 
umut1001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Istanbul
Quote:
Originally Posted by cviller View Post
The problem is that you have tried to adjust everything with just one pot. If you have 4.8 over R3 and 3.8 over R4, it means that you have Q3 running at full throttle, only limited by the fact that you have running Q4 only half turned on.

Turn P1 so that you get ~400mV over R11
Turn P2 until you have 0V dc on the output (without burning anything of course)
Check R11 and R12
Make tiny adjustments on BOTH P1 and P2 until you get 0.6V on R11 and 0V dc
I solved the problem.Trimpots were reverse polarized.now i connected reversed and it is playing well now sound is smooth and very detailed My aluminium cooler is 50cmx10cmx5cm buckhorn.It is about 1.5 kilograms.My lab-room is too cold now and i cant guess how it will be in summer.Here in my country it reaches to 39Celcius degree.Do you think my cooler is enough for F5?
__________________
My New and vintage capacitor store: http://stores.ebay.com/Paradise-of-H...dio-components
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th January 2010, 12:41 AM   #6757
a.wayne is offline a.wayne  United States
diyAudio Member
 
a.wayne's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Front Row Center
Quote:
Originally Posted by umut1001 View Post
I solved the problem.Trimpots were reverse polarized.now i connected reversed and it is playing well now sound is smooth and very detailed My aluminium cooler is 50cmx10cmx5cm buckhorn.It is about 1.5 kilograms.My lab-room is too cold now and i cant guess how it will be in summer.Here in my country it reaches to 39Celcius degree.Do you think my cooler is enough for F5?
Post up a pic .......
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th January 2010, 02:55 AM   #6758
kp93300 is offline kp93300  Malaysia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Default maximum input voltage to clipping

I hope someone can help .
I use a promitheus DAC and connected to the F5 via a passive attenuator--Lightspeed.
At 4 V output form the DAC, there is some distortion with some disc.
It sound fine with 2 V output .
What is the maximum tolerable output from the dac ?


It sounds excellent with a total of 160000uF . Is there any advantage in increasing more capacitance in the power supply rails ?

Thanks
kp93300
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th January 2010, 03:27 AM   #6759
udailey is offline udailey  United States
Passive Aggressive
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
I dont know the answer here but its true that 4V is higher than optimal for voltage through the resistors of the lightspeed. But you would have to have it at near zero volume to get 4V across that series resistor anyway. This probably is not your problem its just a shot in the dark. The best voltage is around 2.5V for the lowest distortion. I looked for the datasheet that showed that but havent found it.
Uriah
__________________
You can purchase LDRs anytime to build a standard LDR attenuator or to build my new LDR Attenuator "A Lighter Note". Email me. diyldr@gmail.com
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th January 2010, 03:36 AM   #6760
cviller is offline cviller  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
cviller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Copenhagen
Blog Entries: 2
You could also be clipping the I/V. I have a suspicion that some of my problems with pcm1738->D1 I/V stage was due to clipping of the I/V.
__________________
I have started a blogged guide to my F5 boards read it here: F5 pcb v2 blog
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (3 members and 1 guests)
rothay, hofer
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rockford Fosgate Power 20001 bd amplifier power rating?? pachoorion Car Audio 8 8th May 2011 11:49 PM
Power transformers versus amplifier output power..what is your option? destroyer X Solid State 38 9th May 2009 06:23 PM
McIntosh Power Amplifier Power Guard johnnyrt Solid State 2 23rd August 2007 11:22 PM
Output power for a power amplifier Progg70 Solid State 33 10th September 2006 09:44 AM
Amplifier 3000 Wats Rms Power + Smps Higcht Power Bestiality MARAVILLASAUDIO Class D 1 5th November 2004 05:06 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:15 AM.

Page generated in 0.17854 seconds (61.43% PHP - 38.57% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio