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Old 13th January 2010, 06:30 AM   #6591
diyray is offline diyray  United States
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Default Heat Sinks

Quote:
Originally Posted by tinitus View Post
With only one pair of outputs why not give each device each its own heatsink
That way theres no need to use any isolators, other that isolate the heatsinks from box/ground, and each other
And heatsink dont need to be that big
Would make nice small monos
But care needed not to touch/short the heatsinks etc

Any safety issues to consider ?

If I should improve heat transfer by using larger isolators, I would consider relatively thick copper no larger than twice the size of device
And use that white heat transfer compound between device and copper
And maybe grind the back of device a bit
If connection isnt 100% tight and smooth, heattransfer may be worse than with "soft" isolators
But adding just another material seem like a winn and loose game, and may be pointless
Are there any proof that it actually works
That would require 4 ea. 10" X 6" heat sinks. Two for each mono block, which I think I'll do instead. If I use mica with oxide cream, I don't need to isolate the heat sinks from the cabinet, right. I think 18 gauge wire going from the PC board to the Mosfets should be large enough wire. What do you think.

Ray
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Old 13th January 2010, 06:42 AM   #6592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000Volts View Post
Hey all,

I fired up my F5. And the output devices do not seem to heat up quickly. So, I turned it off thinking something is a miss. My question is should these output devices heat up right away or is P1 and P2 set to almost zero preventing enough current to flow through the output devices? Not quiet sure. But, P1 and P2 only provide nominal adjustment and my problem is some place else?

Thanks in advance.
If properly set to zero for initial set-up (verify with meter), then no current will flow. It helps to have two meters when adjusting the pots.
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Old 13th January 2010, 07:36 AM   #6593
osscar is offline osscar  Latvia
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Even better and safer use of the three multimeters, they are cheap by the way. so you quickly understand which of the pot in which direction to turn.
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Old 13th January 2010, 12:27 PM   #6594
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Anyone who wants the assembled lateral MOSFET board to experiment with let me know.
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Old 13th January 2010, 02:57 PM   #6595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000Volts View Post
Hey all,

I fired up my F5. And the output devices do not seem to heat up quickly. So, I turned it off thinking something is a miss. My question is should these output devices heat up right away or is P1 and P2 set to almost zero preventing enough current to flow through the output devices? Not quiet sure. But, P1 and P2 only provide nominal adjustment and my problem is some place else?

Thanks in advance.
Use a fused power supply when you initially set up the F5 -- and make sure that you have plenty of fuses. I use a pair of Tektronix DM511's which have internal 2A fuses -- and measure the current. They will initially conduct the Idss of the JFETs, as you adjust the potentiometers the current will rise and so will the heat. I do the initial setup with a programmable supply which is limited to 400mA -- when the dc offset is at a minimum and the amp is stable I switch to a power supply which will do a couple hundred watts and gingerly adjust the pots to get 1.3 amps bias and minimal offset. It's best to be patient.
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Old 13th January 2010, 03:03 PM   #6596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackinnj View Post
Anyone who wants the assembled lateral MOSFET board to experiment with let me know.
Hi Jackinnj,

Me me me me me me !

I'll pay the S&H.

Thanks.

Audiofanatic
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Old 13th January 2010, 03:27 PM   #6597
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Old 14th January 2010, 03:31 AM   #6598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diyray View Post
That would require 4 ea. 10" X 6" heat sinks. Two for each mono block, which I think I'll do instead. If I use mica with oxide cream, I don't need to isolate the heat sinks from the cabinet, right. I think 18 gauge wire going from the PC board to the Mosfets should be large enough wire. What do you think.

Ray
Fatter wire please... the gate wire can be thinner.

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Old 14th January 2010, 04:10 AM   #6599
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Hi.My soundcard is emu1212M.I think it has several hundreds of output impedance.And i think i should use a preamp/buffer(maybeB1 buffer) to drive F5 amp.And there is another way.To buy a AUDIOTRAK Prodigy HD2 soundcard.It has headphone output and good enough to drive F5 amp.Which way is better? Is it a good technic to drive power amplifiers with headphone output of soundcards?(not to use a preamp/buffer and signal cables and I think it can be better for sound quality.because of short signal path and less components.Maybe i am wrong)what do you think?

Last edited by umut1001; 14th January 2010 at 04:15 AM.
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Old 14th January 2010, 05:20 AM   #6600
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any answers?
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