I think the F5T can be made using F5C boards, maybe someone could confirm ?... or not ?
V2 could, but there will be no p-3 or diode pads, so they would have to be grafted on...for that matter, V3 could be done as well, but the other half of the output mosfets would have to be similarly "grafted on", along with the associated resistors and diodes.
Russellc
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After many hours of soldering, drilling, and setup, my F5 is running well.
I would say thank you for your helps on many subjects.
One more happy diyer and hifier.
next step ... pearl 2
May we see some upskirt pictures, please? (in the Pass pics thread)
thanks
, so take a look http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/166784-pictures-your-diy-pass-amplifier-176.html
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Lol Thx for the help, so i was wondering about a couple of speakers and the F5, any experts recommend one speaker over the other ?
87db speaker how is that for F5 ?
JBL xti20 speakers
Sensitivity = 87dB
6-ohms
Rating = 25W
The speaker uses a 16.5cm woofer with a vented pole piece and a 25mm titanium dome tweeter
KEF - LS5/1AC
SIZE: 33 X 19x 17 inches
Nominal Impedance 25 Ohms
Maximum input: 35 watts R.M.S
Frequency response : 40 –13 K/cs +_ 5db
87db speaker how is that for F5 ?
JBL xti20 speakers
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Sensitivity = 87dB
6-ohms
Rating = 25W
The speaker uses a 16.5cm woofer with a vented pole piece and a 25mm titanium dome tweeter
KEF - LS5/1AC
SIZE: 33 X 19x 17 inches
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Nominal Impedance 25 Ohms
Maximum input: 35 watts R.M.S
Frequency response : 40 –13 K/cs +_ 5db
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Titanium dome tweeter - yuck! The worst!
My opinion: Avoid all modern speakers sold in Hi-fi shops these days, as all have small "punchy" bass drivers that suck *** and are just overpriced yuppy crap.
Buy antique! Seriously! Paper coned 3 way sealed enclosures with a 10" or 12" woofer, 5" mid. Rebuild the cross-overs. Replace the lousy tweeters = lush!
Alternatively, build an open baffle and get some paper cones on the go or a horn enclosure and go "full" frequency single drivers like Papa Pass himself.
My personal recommendation: Celestion Ditton 44, Seas 19mm tweeter. Made in Ipswich 1973!!! Works for me!
My opinion: Avoid all modern speakers sold in Hi-fi shops these days, as all have small "punchy" bass drivers that suck *** and are just overpriced yuppy crap.
Buy antique! Seriously! Paper coned 3 way sealed enclosures with a 10" or 12" woofer, 5" mid. Rebuild the cross-overs. Replace the lousy tweeters = lush!
Alternatively, build an open baffle and get some paper cones on the go or a horn enclosure and go "full" frequency single drivers like Papa Pass himself.
My personal recommendation: Celestion Ditton 44, Seas 19mm tweeter. Made in Ipswich 1973!!! Works for me!
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Haha, they are speakers my friend has and wondered if will be ok with F5, oh well lol
The Celestion Ditton 44, do look good. Iv'e always liked the idea of owning some of the higher range Dittons, i have tried the Ditton 15 and the sound was not too good.
Will definitely have some fun with "Full range" speakers and open baffle some time soon. am quite into the idea of Tri-amping
F5 = bass
Low bias F5 or other NP amp = Midrange
5-10 "class-a" = trebble
Well this might make you chuckle here my speakers i butchered but sound much better to "me" than the Celestion Ditton 15's.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/231628-unprofessional-yet-sounds-good-diy-bodge-job.html
The Celestion Ditton 44, do look good. Iv'e always liked the idea of owning some of the higher range Dittons, i have tried the Ditton 15 and the sound was not too good.
Will definitely have some fun with "Full range" speakers and open baffle some time soon. am quite into the idea of Tri-amping
F5 = bass
Low bias F5 or other NP amp = Midrange
5-10 "class-a" = trebble
Well this might make you chuckle here my speakers i butchered but sound much better to "me" than the Celestion Ditton 15's.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/231628-unprofessional-yet-sounds-good-diy-bodge-job.html
Yes im listening to them with a "Jean Hiraga 20w class-A" lovely sound, and am waiting for my F5 to return from a friend which has a lot more sonic quality to me. although my Hiraga is running from 12v dc converted -/+ 24 which may be causing the loss of Quality.
Hey its a shame there is not a version of F5 that can be run in a car lol
im listening to them with a "Jean Hiraga 20w class-A" lovely sound, and am waiting for my F5 to return from a friend which has a lot more sonic quality to me. although my Hiraga is running from 12v dc converted -/+ 24 which may be causing the loss of Quality.Hey its a shame there is not a version of F5 that can be run in a car lol
you can run any design in a car (almost).https://www.dropbox.com/s/0joj8oxb3u6bhcr/522752_566830956683634_2115241928_n.jpg
depends on the power supply. it can be done with f5 -f5t
however class A consumes power and produces warmth, so in a car I would go for a different solution...D
depends on the power supply. it can be done with f5 -f5t
however class A consumes power and produces warmth, so in a car I would go for a different solution...D
Haha, well i might try a max 20w amp in a car, maybee mod the aleph or try Aleph mini, or perhaps there could even be a 10w version of F5
Best to run a 12v x2 with regulators ? than create some kind of DC-DC converter to up the voltage, does not seem natural that aproach though. would rather have a "class-A" that can be powered direct from a single 12v battery, my car amp Hiraga sounds good with DC-DC
(12v = -24v+24v)
:edit
What i mean to say is it would make more sense to have a circuit that was 12v single rail as a car amplifier lol. so now i just need to find an amp worthy of such a feat.
Best to run a 12v x2 with regulators ? than create some kind of DC-DC converter to up the voltage, does not seem natural that aproach though. would rather have a "class-A" that can be powered direct from a single 12v battery, my car amp Hiraga sounds good with DC-DC
(12v = -24v+24v)
:edit
What i mean to say is it would make more sense to have a circuit that was 12v single rail as a car amplifier lol. so now i just need to find an amp worthy of such a feat.
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It's almost antique: Vifa P13. I've yet to hear anything using this (or it's sibling C13) which wasn't at least OK. The Ariel is the sine qua non of P13 speakers, but there's some negativiety to Pass & Ariel compatibility.
I'd also go for anything ribbon (eg. Ambience). You'll likely have a love/hate/love relationship with hi efficiency paper cones - eg. Fostex Sigmas. (I've not had Lowthers in the house so I'll reserve judgement).
I've been impressed by every electrostatic I've heard BUT they are usually very inefficient. Not F5 country
Not entirely accurate.
25W is 6dB down from 100W, 20 minus 6 makes 14dB.
My ESL2905 does 86dB/W/m, 86 +14 makes 100dB.
100dB is the max continuous rating of the Quads, before protection hits the brakes.
Impuls power is another matter, the Quads handle 55V peaks, makes close to 106dB peaks.
So a 25W continuous power amp, with the peak power level of a 200W amp, would be sufficient.(*)
The ESL63 managed an ear shattering SP level in a 600sqft room with 50W continuous Quad 303 amps (monaural clones).
In a less large room, an F5 hits the bare minimum mark, also doesn't sound half bad imo.
As a socially unadapted, my audio room is on the 1st floor (aka one up in Europe) , about half of 600sqft.
Only has the loudspeakers, power amps, one chair, plus a small side-stand in it, rest is in the room next to it.
Safer with kids, plus cat & dogs, and guests can go screw themselves with a Sony R/C downstairs.
(* such a contraption exists, actually, but you'd have to kick the buttocks of Glen in Oz to obtain the schematics)
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