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#6101 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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I suppose your right
I will try But I also intend to not be too hysteral about it Meaning I wont let it lead to other compromises Im still in doubt about the rail voltage But I will probably stick to 25V with raised bias Regarding Jfets Are you sure that an effective heatsink on each Jfet wont be just as effective And with each leg connected to solid wire It should be able to deal with the worst temperature variations I suppose the constant temperature variations is the problem If temperature is more stable, DC variations should be less, even if both Jfet are not thermally connected Just speculation Anyway, it will be hardwired all through, and "layout" is just an overwiev, and things may change a bit once I start soldering Last edited by tinitus; 26th November 2009 at 01:47 PM. |
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#6102 |
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Passive Aggressive
diyAudio Member
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Tinitus,
Thats a cool looking program for your schematic. Which program is it? Uriah
__________________
You can purchase LDRs anytime to build a standard LDR attenuator or to build my new LDR Attenuator "A Lighter Note". Email me. diyldr@gmail.com |
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#6103 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Hi Uriah
Its the simple "paint", nothing special But yeah, I like it I think it followed with windows At first it seems useless But there are some useful tricks here and there Let me know if you want to use it I will tell you the tricks, wont take long Also useful fore making speaker cutting plans Just bought a used lazer printer cheap Black and white, but ok fore simple schematics etc Last edited by tinitus; 26th November 2009 at 09:49 PM. |
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#6104 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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If of any interest, I have made a small change to supply
I was tempted to put in a couple resistors at the last supply cap, fore the Jfet/bias curcuit But soon realised I better not do that, again Instead I have "seperated" the last caps with a "thinner" wire May not matter at all, or may be one of those little things that might make a small difference btw, supply caps are planned to be BC 22.000uf/40V Last edited by tinitus; 27th November 2009 at 12:29 AM. |
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#6105 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: On the moon.
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Quote:
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#6106 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Milan, Italy
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Why not also put a trimmer between Jfet sources and ground as recently suggested by NP?
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#6107 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: ohio
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Does Nelson physically clamp the Jfets together as I've seen some people do around here? Is that absolutely necessary? If they are physically close, but not touching/clamped will they still be stable?
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#6108 |
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Official Court Jester
diyAudio Member
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Papa don't loose much sleep on that jfet kissing affair ;
at least looking on pictures of his Fugly! amps . maybe explanation is that they're usually warm inside ....... Jacco will probably say - Papamps are cozy inside ........
__________________
my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; BAF Forum & Gallery
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#6109 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: ohio
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That's what I thought at first, but after looking at the pictures again the transistors I could spot (which are not located next to each other) are the CCS transistors. I assume the Jfets are hiding back in the picture toward the rca jacks.
At any rate, if it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me. I have the Cviller boards so they are physically close together, but still separated by 1-2mm. |
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#6110 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: On the moon.
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I do not know what Nelson does. This cannot be seen on Six moons review.
Both ways are working. In doubt, it cannot be wrong to make them touch when trying to do the best possible. |
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