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#5881 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
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Quote:
__________________
my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to clean thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; Mighty ZM's Bloggg;I'm dumb
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#5882 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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I happen to agree
Not the perfect choise But all we really need is a curcuit safe enough to power up It just have to work without burning THEN we can talk about perfecting it further And we may have to realise it may still burn eventually I wouldnt leave it out of my sight fore quite a while I suppose its name of the game Lets just build it, and talk later Last edited by tinitus; 16th November 2009 at 02:06 PM. |
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#5883 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Hello
For me it does not make sense to change the orig design JET to V fet .Even Juma first draw for the higher power rail with JET now when all design done why should I trow it out all on the window and start again something copletly different ? Thank you any way . I go with out cascode . I have the layout for that to . Thanks one more time guys , it was kind to read your advise ! I have no need more these type of help. Greets |
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#5884 |
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Passive Aggressive
diyAudio Member
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Gab,
Your board does not make a lot of sense. You have these two rails coming out from center going left and right. They have two parallel lines connected by angles that look like mountains. If this is single sided... then you have simply created a plane going to the left and a plane to the right. So are the mountains just for looks or what is the point? Do you have any kind of silkscreen so we can see what you are trying to do? The schematic along with that board is not going to help a lot except that we can guess easily which are mosfets and which are resistors going to mosfets. Other than that its a bit confusing. Just to be clear I have no intention of diagnosing your FX-5 circuit as it is beyond me, but I am pretty sure that board is either designed for looks, making it confusing, or designed wrong. Uriah
__________________
You can purchase LDRs anytime to build a standard LDR attenuator or to build my new LDR Attenuator "A Lighter Note". Email me. diyldr@gmail.com |
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#5885 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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I have never seen nothing but good behaviour in the PASS forum
Im sure its obvious why Or maybe it isnt Maybe it wont last forever But please, lets try not to spoil it |
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#5886 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
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Udailey,
Positive, HELPFUL, well thought out, informative, direct and concise. Well Done, great post! Ron
__________________
"If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3 "I fired up the prototype. Literally." The Prophet Pass. |
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#5887 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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The fun of that story is that the regular F5 is a very good sounding proven design 100% warranted very simple to build without any headache.
Aren't you simply curious to listen to it? Or are you smarter than Papa? Not to forget that a distortion analyser should be helpfull to tweak the mods. |
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#5888 | |
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Passive Aggressive
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
There was no maliciousness in my post whatsoever. None. Uriah
__________________
You can purchase LDRs anytime to build a standard LDR attenuator or to build my new LDR Attenuator "A Lighter Note". Email me. diyldr@gmail.com |
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#5889 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Scottish Borders - Kelso; on the famous Tweed River!
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What does concern me is that this whole matter regarding an up-rated F5 should have been split from the main F5 thread very early on.
To attempt to find anything regarding the F5 - as originally gifted by Nelson Pass - is like looking for a needle in a haystack....a haystack of almost 6000 postings!
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#5890 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Hello
The board was design by hand , there is no silkscreen unfortunately . Sorry about that . The reason I wrote I want to stick the orig design !It take me hours to draw a layout like these by hand . These is not a SECRET or something I just don't have any silkscreen . You can find the schematic in the last couple page if you seriously interested . For me it make sense , I DESIGN many working boards like these with out any software . And always work out fine . I posted the cascoded the input before .But I will posted one more time and also the full schematic . My orig question was : The cascode was design to 40V rail , now I go with lower voltage actually 24V rail .So if I want the cascode to work fine do I have to use lower value resistor to connect the cascode to the rail and to the ground or to the JET source. Greets |
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