Of course there will be ventilation - but this is also design question - i will choose later between the grid and holes.
Thank you for answer Zen Mod!
Thank you for answer Zen Mod!
You will need some outside ventilation also if you want to bias higher than 1 Amp or 1,1Amp.
But the F5 works nice at this value too.
But the F5 works nice at this value too.
Moment of truth is not far 
( today i received missing ZTX transistors so i will use them instead of BCs) No fans - i dont like active cooling. Yes- probibly i will need to reduce bias a little. So we will see soon. Thanks.
regards
o.
( today i received missing ZTX transistors so i will use them instead of BCs) No fans - i dont like active cooling. Yes- probibly i will need to reduce bias a little. So we will see soon. Thanks.regards
o.
Is there a popular consensus on what the ambient air temp inside of the chassis is acceptable?
I would like to think it depends on amplifier type - maybe 35-45 Celsius will be ok. For example my 3875 chipamp inside parts are really cool (two 100VA transformers , caps, even heatsink) during normal listening. Lecah amp gets more warmer even at low volume. (especially big transformer + output transistors and drivers). F5 will be warmer i guess...
It would be interesting to measure components by IR thermometer.
It would be interesting to measure components by IR thermometer.
MTBF design also depends on whether it's intended use is commercial, industrial, military,...or DIY.
For Class AB stuff it's around 40C, for Class A it's more important to pick 105C grade for the weakest parts.
For Class AB stuff it's around 40C, for Class A it's more important to pick 105C grade for the weakest parts.
clever ;
often seen in rack mounted equipment , somewhat scary for usual fifi usage ;
anyway - except few dumbheads , I don't know any greedy boy using Papamps as plain fifi
I do something very similar, creating a chiminey effect, keeping air moving vertically (slowly) over the board. I have not had any offset drift due to this.
I still use holes in the top and bottom cover for additional airflow through the case.
Member
Joined 2002
Pics of the guinea pigs.
The paddle wheel heatsinks are the 134/49 Hitachi Mosfets (Top left pic & bottom right pic).
The other is the DC100 next up for the test (top right pic bottom left pic).
The paddle wheel heatsinks are the 134/49 Hitachi Mosfets (Top left pic & bottom right pic).
The other is the DC100 next up for the test (top right pic bottom left pic).
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Dear Bobo,
Quote>
<I use this arrangement to allow an air blade to circulate along the flat side of the heatsinks.
Top and bottom plates do not join completely the heatsinks (1 cm free)>
Would not this let also RF in?
Bonne chance,
Quote>
<I use this arrangement to allow an air blade to circulate along the flat side of the heatsinks.
Top and bottom plates do not join completely the heatsinks (1 cm free)>
Would not this let also RF in?
Bonne chance,
And ninos could put their fingers in too...
A metallic grid can be added in these cases.
...My amps are usually running topless and i have no RF issues.
A metallic grid can be added in these cases.
...My amps are usually running topless and i have no RF issues.
He, he 😀 mine are also topless..."test setup" becomes permanent. We latins are lazy sometimes...
No. The true is that I cannot afford shipment + price of good enclosures.
Salut!
M
No. The true is that I cannot afford shipment + price of good enclosures.
Salut!
M
I like to make the inside pretty nice and then i do not like to hide this beauty.😉
¿Cómo están las cosas en Chile?
¿Cómo están las cosas en Chile?
I also like the neat internal layout of components and wires.
Maybe i ill put some kind of mesh on top instead of aluminum plate. I have somewhere stainless steel grill with around 5mmx5mm grid.
I hope that I succeed in something a little closer to the best samples which I saw here. Now i working on my PSU : it will look like this - today ill solder all wires (if ill get one of the missing capacitor).
Thank you for ideas.
o.
Maybe i ill put some kind of mesh on top instead of aluminum plate. I have somewhere stainless steel grill with around 5mmx5mm grid.
I hope that I succeed in something a little closer to the best samples which I saw here. Now i working on my PSU : it will look like this - today ill solder all wires (if ill get one of the missing capacitor).
Thank you for ideas.
o.
