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Old 7th February 2009, 03:01 PM   #2751
ichiban is offline ichiban  United States
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Default Which caps?

Quote:
Originally posted by samsagaz
wich caps you guys recommend me for Power Supply?

I'm using 15000uF 35V P6668-ND CAPACITOR 15000UF 35V ELECT TSHA from DigiKey, but read posts Post #2581 through Post #2597 .

Nelsons F5 owners manual suggests minimum 15000uF each of eight caps and I would not go lower than 35 volts.
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Old 7th February 2009, 03:21 PM   #2752
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After posting my choice for caps in #2589, I became aware of problems that others here have experienced with that seller.

Buyer beware.

I had no problems as others did. Mine was a satisfactory transaction. I hope the same for all.
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Old 7th February 2009, 05:06 PM   #2753
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Default Re: Which caps?

Quote:
Originally posted by ichiban



I'm using 15000uF 35V P6668-ND CAPACITOR 15000UF 35V ELECT TSHA from DigiKey, but read posts Post #2581 through Post #2597 .

Nelsons F5 owners manual suggests minimum 15000uF each of eight caps and I would not go lower than 35 volts.

Ok, will purchase some Panasonics and will go safe
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Old 7th February 2009, 05:09 PM   #2754
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I could use some input from y'all on this one--could the output of a F5 be feed into the input of an F4 so the F4 could drive a woofer through it's crossover and the F5 could drive a lowther trough it's crossover as in the F4 manual for using flea amps????
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Old 7th February 2009, 08:26 PM   #2755
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Woo Hoo!!!


OK I have it sorted! thing is I don't really know exactly what was at fault, but prob a combination of things.

What I did was take out the board, remove the pots and Q1/2 and i cleaned all the board down removing any solder etc from where Q1/2 etc had been. I washed all the flux off the board and to be honest I couldnt see anything wrong. So I refitted the parts and reflowed all my solder joints.

I also cleaned down the heatsink and Q3/4 with alcohol and scavenged some thermal pads from a dead switch mode PS.

Fired it back up and it works. Seems very stable, bias does climb slowly and rises with temperature, but it has been playing now for about 4 hours and all is well. I let it run for 2 hours into a 6R8 power resistor to test out first.

I'm not 100% happy at leaving out the thermal compensation, as the bias does rise and fall a bit with internal temp. Perhaps someone who knows could comment on what kind of variation in bias it is normal (or at least ok) to see in use in real life, ie music playing into a speaker.


I have another question too:

I would like to get some thermal pads from mouser. Can anyone give me part number for them... I've searched and not found (for Q3/4).

Temp readings to follow later.... but safe to say all seems to be ok.

Fran
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Old 7th February 2009, 08:49 PM   #2756
ichiban is offline ichiban  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by woodturner-fran


I would like to get some thermal pads from mouser. Can anyone give me part number for them... I've searched and not found (for Q3/4).

Temp readings to follow later.... but safe to say all seems to be ok.

Fran

Mouser Kapton 175-6-280p <----I saw these

I will use these from digikey
BER120-ND HEATPAD TO-247 .006" K10 1.360each
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Old 7th February 2009, 08:52 PM   #2757
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Quote:
Originally posted by bubba177
I could use some input from y'all on this one--could the output of a F5 be feed into the input of an F4 so the F4 could drive a woofer through it's crossover and the F5 could drive a lowther trough it's crossover as in the F4 manual for using flea amps????

yup ;

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Old 7th February 2009, 08:55 PM   #2758
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Quote:
Originally posted by ichiban



Mouser Kapton 175-6-280p <----I saw these

I will use these from digikey
BER120-ND HEATPAD TO-247 .006" K10 1.360each
I've used the Bergquist BER120-ND from Digikey on F4 and F5 with great results.
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Old 7th February 2009, 09:56 PM   #2759
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Quote:
Originally posted by woodturner-fran


Woo Hoo!!!



Congratulations! Wnjoy! Be Happy!


>><<
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Old 7th February 2009, 10:01 PM   #2760
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what about BER131-ND? are cheap
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